theWacoKid

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    Ben Langford

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  1. TL;DR But subject had me screamin' "Leeeroyy Jenkinnnnsss".
  2. 6-40 is most common I've seen. 5-40 is used too (CK) and is the only option I can source for torx-plus screws.
  3. I fight the same issue every so often with a particular gun. Seems to be partially mag and extractor related. When my extractor gets too weak certain mags start affecting proper ejection and this happens. I'm mostly able to keep it at bay with staying on extractor maintenance but touching up mag lips may help you more.
  4. Feeding issues are most often tracked down to dirty gun, light recoil spring, mag, mag catch, loose screws, or ammo. Dirty gun is easy. You are definitely not too light of a recoil spring. Is your ammo consistent? Time to figure out if it's one mag or all. Check grip screws and make sure they are all tight.
  5. With the dot on, pull out the battery. Wait a few seconds and reinstall. The dot will automatically come back on with the insertion of the battery only if it is the v4.
  6. RTS2 v4's are very sensitive to battery voltage. Obviously some more so than others. If it is "strobing" that means it senses low voltage and the battery is about done. I've only had it strobe to show low voltage about 25% of the time. Normally it just goes out under recoil and won't run again until it gets a new battery. Other than batteries I haven't had a v4 die yet. I also have a bad habit of leaving a battery in until it dies.
  7. Three will work and five won't fix the loosening issue. Make sure all threads are clean, dry, and free of oil and let the loctite set up at least overnight. Otherwise it won't take.
  8. We covered this in my RO class. Good times.
  9. For one reason or another I've had comps on and off my guns a lot. Either it loosens, or twists, or I'm working on the barrel, or on the comp itself, etc. etc. For peace of mind it's nice to always touch it up on install, especially if your comp has fairly loose threads (like my CK) and is mostly held by set screws since it can sit in a slightly different position each time. Nevermind all that because over time all the baffles in my comps begin to slightly build up with fouling and the edges roll over. A quick hand twist with the reamer cleans all that up and eliminates any future problems that are likely to arrive at the worst possible time. Having had bullets start striking the comp mid-match, I'll do anything to avoid it.
  10. This. http://www.egwguns.com/tooling/9mm/38-alignment-reamer/ In my opinion if you're going to be seriously shooting open and messing with your guns at all this is a must have tool to keep around. I've used mine a lot. Do note that the pilot fits in most barrels but needs to be reduced in diameter for others like the Infinity Ultimatch.
  11. Sounds like bumped safety. Any chance that's it?
  12. A note to everyone. It's not that the chamber is short it's that the throat is insufficient for long loaded jhp's. My CK would not initially plunk jhp's past about 1.140" HOWEVER it would plunk MG CMJ's at 1.190". Technically there are are no true specs on 9x19 throats. It's highly variable and they can be short or long as well as tapered at different rates.
  13. You just get a little more thread engagement in the thin amount of frame available. But the guns tend to already be threaded 5-40 or 6-40 to start with so you're stuck in that box.
  14. McMaster is the place to get torx plus 5-40's and the torx plus wrenches. The 6-40's unfortunately aren't available.
  15. 5-40 on CK's and 6-40's often on other guns. For the 5-40's I upgrade everything to torx plus to get away from stripping hex keys and sockets. I've yet to find a good source for torx plus 6-40 flat heads. If anyone knows somewhere please pass it on.