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About 1911luvr

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  1. Yep Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. The initial problem wasn't caused by the side-charging upper, and to be fair to the upper, the second problem was due to me not being completely familiar with the nuances of the side-charger. However, I'm quite well versed in it now! This problem was not the fault of the upper, by my fault for not sorting my ammo to remove rounds with the case dimpling like I normally do. After the second time a case separated with my old barrel, I began sorting all my rounds before taking them to a match. Unfortunately this time I picked up some reloads from a friend right before the match and didn't have time to properly sort them. In any case, I love this upper and I would definitely buy it again, especially now that I'm more familiar with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I thought I'd share my recent unhappy experience in hopes those with the same setup can learn from it. Since part of this incident is specific to my upper, I need to mention I'm running a NFA 9mm Glock lower with the NFA LRBHO side-charging upper that has a couple thousand round through it, and a Wilson Arms barrel with just under 1K rounds through it. While shooting a USPSA match this weekend I had a failure after firing my couple shots, where I saw a flash out of the corner of my eye and heard an oddly loud bang close to my face. Looking through the ejection port I can see the bolt is locked back and twisted pieces of brass are sitting inside the receiver. I was thinking I may have had a round fire slightly out of battery so I dump the mag and tilt the rifle so the brass drops out. I tried to cycle the bolt but it's stuck and will not go forward, so I exit the stage and head to the repair bench and open up the rifle. At the bench I see a piece of brass mangled around the bolt hold open lever so I remove it, and another piece of brass was sitting in the little cut out behind the magazine. I removed it also and then noticed half a 9mm casing still in the chamber. I've had this problem a couple times before with another barrel, so I'm expecting this to be a nightmare to remove like before. I had to make my own broken case extractor for it since nothing else would remove it. Unfortunately I forgot that tool at home, so I figured I'd try a bore snake and hope to get lucky. The bore snake stops half way down the barrel, so I also have a squib stuck in the barrel. As luck would have it, the night before I just finished trimming to length a prototype set of weighted brass squib rods my buddy is making, and I brought them with me to show some friends. The carbine length rod solved my problem quickly and I went on to try the bore snake. I got lucky again and the brass ring came out easily with the snake. Now, thinking I'm good to go I rack the bolt several times, check the trigger and bore, and everything looks good. I went on to shoot a round so I'm thinking everything is fine. Then, after six shots on the next stage I hear the same bang and again see brass shards inside the ejection port, so back to the repair bench I go. After clearing the brass pieces, I found what I believe may have caused the second out of battery discharge. In between front of the receiver and the side-charger arm that pulls the bolt back is a small strip of brass, which is wedged enough to keep the charging arm from moving. With a pair of pliers I was able to tear the brass out and the arm freed up so I could clear the other half of the brass strip out of the space in front of the side charging arm. When I was at the bench last time, the side charging arm was in the forward position while the bolt was back (charging arm doesn't reciprocate when shooting), so I didn't notice there was a space in front of the charging arm, and never knew to check that it was clear of brass. Anyone using this upper should make sure this area is clear of foreign material or the bolt cannot go all the way forward, leaving it slightly out of battery. Obviously my rifle fired with the bolt slightly out of battery, so I'm not sure what I can do to prevent this in the future. Someone did suggest a stiffer firing pin spring may help, but not sure how I could safely test that as a solution. In any case, I hope this information helps someone else out there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I believe it stands for extreme spread in his report. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. How is the paint job holding up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Ahh, that makes sense! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I already have the mount, just need the shim. I was originally going to use aluminum, but buddy talked me into Delrin since it's lighter and easier to mill. He also mentioned something about the friction of Delrin giving me a better hold should the screws slightly loosen. I don't know about that last part, but I like the idea of being able to easily cut it on my router. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. That's exactly what I was going to do, since I didn't know C-more made a spacer. There's gotta be someone else that sells their spacer with cheaper shipping- at least I hope so! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I had no idea the factory railway amount was so expensive! My gunsmith had a bunch of them are laying around from building open class 1911s, so he gave me what I needed. After shooting a USPS a match and a steel challenge match with it, I realized I needed a small riser. My buddy has that American Defense base and it is the perfect height for me, but at over $70 it's not the right price for me since I already have the factory base. I've decided to just use a bit of Delron and get longer screws to make my own riser Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Do you have a rifle length extension tube or carbine length? If it's carbine length remove the spacer because you're preloading the hell out of it. The spacer is for rifle length tubes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Still waiting to hear if anyone has tried these Armaspec buffers yet. http://armaspec.com/product/stealth-recoil-spring/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I've tried hundred grain coated bullets with less than stellar results. I'm using 115 grain coated and will easily shoot 2 to 2 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I bought the Wilson Arms barrel based on your recommendation, and had a friend turn it down so it's the same diameter the full length. Gave it a quick rattle can job and then shot it yesterday in steel challenge. I'm extremely happy with it, so thank you for the tip! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Based on the insanely low price I got one last week. Shot it today in steel challenge, and worked great. Worked as good or better than the JP tactical brake I was using. Thumbs up from me (whatever that's worth). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I'm no spring chicken either, and pushing 260, so I can relate. This was my best run and it felt good at the time. All A zone except one C on the last target. It was 7 seconds off the lead time (an open pistol shooter). I know I had a couple misses on the steel I need to clean up, but even if I shot once per target and didn't have a mag change, I don't know how I could shave that much time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk