Bkreutz

I used the "lo powder alarm" for a few months when I first got my 650, I quit using it because powder was sticking to the probe for the alarm and getting all over the shell plate. When I was considering a bullet feeder (I hadn't bought one yet) I tried every way I could think of to cause a double charge, or a no charge condition. I never did find a way of doing that, I concluded that it was almost impossible to over or under charge on a 650, so I stopped worrying about it, bought the Mr Bullet feeder. I look for a number of things during the cycling of the press. I look at the new case being pushed into the shell plate, a 9mm case is the same height at the plastic pusher piece, I listen for the clack of the case falling into the tube, I listen for the sound of the bullet going into the tube. About the only problem I've had with the MBF was upside down bullets, in which case the one that's nose down goes into the case and powder, the second one stacks on the base of the first slug, then it falls off and to the floor. I've pretty much eliminated that by getting the setup done correctly. I case gauge with a hundo, and have about a less than .5%, those I break down and reuse the powder and bullet, sometimes the primer, depends on how bent up it gets. I've loaded around 200K rounds on the 650, I've thought about a 750, but I'll wait until I win one at a match. I'm retired so time is not an issue.

Piece of hose and a hand vacuum pump (or you could put the end of the hose in your mouth and suck). The vacuum would grab the ball. I thought about all the jokes that this reply could generate, but decided to post it anyway.

I believe you are thinking of Appendix D-7.20 which has the same language about magnets for SS, Production, and CO. He is right, like other prohibitions, it's only in effect during the course of fire. Different example, before the start signal, a shooter can pull a mag from his pocket to make ready, if he/she did that during the course of fire it would be a bump to open, same thing with a magnetic magazine holder. As long as it's not during the course of fire, it's legal with no penalty.

Kinda depends on what you want to spend. Everywhere from a $30.00 Blade Tech to a $250.00 AA or Safariland. I have used all 3 and they work well, I do second the motion on reading the USPSA rulebook concerning CO.

My experience is that most of the higher classified shooters are quite friendly, certainly there are exceptions. I'm just a middle of the road shooter that doesn't take myself so seriously, maybe if the USPSA had existed 40+ years ago "I coulda been a contender" . Maybe not, I was more interested in keeping my but from getting shot. What I have found works to get along with most squadmates are a few rules, I never discuss politics or religion, most people have already made up their mind and those discussions often lead to hard feelings, the other rule I have is not to be horsing around or talking to the "top" shooters when they're preparing to shoot. They put a lot of effort (and money) into this sport so they don't need an old fart to be bothering them.

I remember 30 carbines stuffed in a barrel at the Army surplus stores in the early '60's. They were $20 each. If I only knew. There are a number of M1 carbine groups on the internet but they all seem to look down on the modern versions. Luckily I got a '44 Winchester about 10 years ago (for a lot more than $20 ), But I did buy a Garand last year from the CMP, they called it their special version, early 50's receiver and action, new barrel and wood. No real historical value, but it looks like a new rifle. Both are safe queens, but I have an extra Dillon 550 set up for loading 30 Carbine.

Sarge, this do dad works pretty good. https://rangepanda.com/collections/misc-products/products/dmd-hundo-risers (the owner of this company is a local shooter)

I've loaded a few 124 FMJ with 5.0 AC, got 130 PF, kinda on the dirty side, but cycled well in a M&P. I'd use it in a pinch, but I'll save it for major 9 and use another powder for minor.

7 gr will give you about 1400 fps, that's what I use. (my reloading manuals are spider nests)

Sages, I buy lots at a time, I still have a number of 3000 count boxes I haven't opened yet

I never counted how many times I could reload major brass. When I first started shooting 9 major, I had all kinds of plans about keeping track of that, but shooting as much as I was, that proved to be too much work. Now I buy brass from a quality seller. I pay around $20 per thousand, I inspect them for stepped cases, Russian headstamps, 380 or Makarov cases, wash and load them. I consider every match a "lost brass" match and don't pick up spent brass, even during practice. At $20 per K, it's not even worth bending over to pick them up.

If you want a cheaper option, look at Seller and Bellot small rifle primers, I bought some a few years back to use in my 9 Open STI (I was still new at that caliber) loaded some up and started having misfires, on one round I had three primer strikes with no ignition. I looked at the box and started to read the Czech description on the box (thanks to the US Army I had 47 weeks of Czech language school), and funny enough, the Czech didn't say the same thing as the English version (imagine that). What it said was that the primers were designed for use in Kalashnikov weapons, no wonder they didn't want to ignite, so I traded with a guy for use in his AK for some CCI 500's. I use S&B small pistol without any problems but the small rifle are like the CCI 41's.

I use 1.150 in a STI with Autocomp

Have to agree with you on this. The time spent separating out the pins just seemed like a waste to me. I use a cleaner solution that a guy makes locally and some Lemishine (well water here at my place). Like you said, a couple of hours, rinse and drain, then I put a couple of thousand at a time into a DAA dehydrator (purpose bought for that job), spray some lube and put it in the bin.

They billed them directly