tyler2you

A bore snake will usually pull those right out.

Yes. I've only got around 1K on it so far, but it's working as advertised.

Why would it be an AD? If I have a malfunction during a stage and choose to put one into the berm to test it instead of a target, is that an AD/DQ?

It was a 90 point stage (8 paper requiring 2 hits, 1 paper requiring 1 hit, and 1 steel). If you were to attempt the partial and shoot 18 Alphas in 17 seconds, you'd end up with a HF of 5.29 If you just threw a shot towards the partial and shot 17 Alphas and 1 Mike in 14 seconds, you'd end up with a HF of 5.35 So, if you could save 3 seconds by not having to stop, set up squarely, and take a very careful aimed shot the math worked out. The opportunity to tag a no-shoot also factors into the risk/reward equation. The top 2 pistol shooters on the stage shot it in a little over 11 seconds and took the Mike. Third place went to a pistol shooter that made the shot and did it in 17.39

It only required 1 shot.

Stage under discussion is the first one in the video below. Not a great shot of the target, but you get the idea:

Tim--I was just basing the FMJ comment on what BigBamBoo said above. He's shooting 115gr WWB and has noticeable leading in his tube.

There's some good ideas in this thread:

I took a look inside my tube last night after 1700 rounds of nothing but coated lead (147gr BBI). Other than some unburnt powder and a coat of carbon, it looked fine. No lead build-up at all. FMJs with an exposed base and uncoated lead are probably a different story.

Going from 9mm to .40 requires more than just a barrel. You also need a new slide or to open up the breach face by about .015" on each side. And a new extractor. Most will recommend a complete top end. If you decide to go down this route, Glenn at Lonestar Innovations does excellent work with reasonable timelines.

What would happen if you failed to brush out the tube after a few thousand rounds of coated bullets?

I hope you have better luck with your replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't seen one that didn't have problems in a PCC (either failing to reset or doubling). They are fantastic triggers in a standard AR-15.

I assume you're talking about this piece: http://i.imgur.com/teGKplN.jpg Max explained earlier in the thread that it's just a regular buffer that's been cut down with the bumper re-pinned. You can also use a Delrin buffer spacer like the one NFA sells. The wave spring addition isn't really necessary to get the benefits of the Blitzkrieg buffer. Some folks like the wave set-up and others don't.

There was a young lady that put a round from her M&P through her leg at one of Ben Stoeger's classes a while back. It was believed to be a result of a bad trigger job as CHA-LEE suggests above. Not saying that's what happened here, but it would be interesting to know how this particular firearm was configured (Apex kit, Burwell trigger job, etc.). https://bearingarms.com/bob-o/2017/02/27/amateur-gunsmithing-nearly-costs-competitive-shooter-her-life

www.collectinsure.com

Type of gun/mount?

https://practiscore.com/results/html/c301cd7a-bcfe-44b5-86e0-21984db7683d

Please tell me no parts of your carbine got near your Urethra

I can confirm the Wilson FP works perfectly in the Taccom Bolt. Shot a match last night and it worked as expected. Hoping it will last a lot longer than the original.

The Sig MPX is probably the softest shooting 9mm carbine due to the locked bolt vs. a blowback system. AR-9s can be made to shoot fairly soft, but it will be more challenging with factory ammo.

I ordered direct from Wilson. It looks like the one on their website here: http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Bullet-Proof-9mm-AR-Firing-Pin-S-7-Tool-Steel/productinfo/TR-AR9FP/

I decided to be a Guinea Pig and ordered the Wilson Bulletproof Firing Pin for my AR9. It appears the transition was cut with a radiused cutter as it isn't a sharp 90 degree angle like the original pin. Measurements are slightly different than the FP that came in my Taccom Bolt: Wilson OAL:2.6385 Large Diameter: .1490 Small Diameter: .1050 Taccom (Faxon) OAL: 2.6545 Large Diameter: .1505 Small Diameter: .0990 I installed the Wilson Pin in the Taccom Bolt and it appears to be good to go. Hoping the fact that it's made from tool steel and doesn't have the sharp corner will improve longevity.

Good luck with the build David. It will be fun. Probably the highest risk operations will be fitting the slide to frame and the barrel fit. Be especially patient with fitting the barrel. There's a lot going on with how the barrel interacts with the slide when fitting the upper lugs. It's easy to keep filing away trying to get more lug engagement when the barrel may be springing at the front. Having someone local to you that's done a few barrel fittings is extremely helpful. Fitting the lower lugs is more straightforward, but requires patience to get a solid lock-up on the slide stop pin. Laying out and drilling/tapping the holes for the scope mount also needs to be approached with care. Make sure you center punch the locations and use a short bit or small end mill to get the hole started so it doesn't walk on you.

Eric: What bolt are you running the JP Pin in? Their website says not to use it with anyone else's bolt. Just wondering if it would be a good option for my Taccom bolt. Thanks

Found this picture at Strongside Tactical. It says it's a Wilson, but it doesn't look like the one on the Wilson website. It doesn't appear to have the sharp corners that most of them have. https://www.strongsidetactical.com/wilson-9mm-ar9-s7-firing-pin-spring/