tyler2you

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About tyler2you

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  • Birthday 05/29/1965

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  • Location
    Alabama
  • Real Name
    Tyler Green

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  1. Yep, I've done 2. Both required removing around .008" off the bottom and a few thousandths off the frame rails. Great combo IMO.
  2. CK Arms Frames and Caspian Slides have treated me right. I also recently did a build on a Phoenix Trinity Frame which turned out well, but required a bit more work.
  3. Just about any spare part outside of springs on a 2011 is going to require fitting to your specific gun. If you're going to have a set of fit spare parts, I'd say a spare ambi safety, firing pin & stop, and extractor (or springs for an Aftec) should get you through most issues you might see at a match. You could also have a spare fire control group (hammer, sear, spring) ready to go, but at that point you're probably better off with a spare gun. You could keep a spare recoil spring, but you should be staying on top of that maintenance prior to getting to a match.
  4. What do you do with the used up solution after you're done? If you have any Lead in your comp, it will create Lead Acetate which is very toxic and easily absorbed through the skin.
  5. Just finished this one up this evening. PT Frame, Grip, and Safeties; KKM Barrel and Bedell Max Comp. Brazos cut the slide for me and I did the rest of the work. This is my 3rd 2011 build and the most challenging yet. Test fire this afternoon was flawless.
  6. Could it be a cast part? MIM parts usually (but not always) have a flat spot as well where a rod pushes the part out of the mold.
  7. Deficient Value Certainly
  8. But you still don't know what condition the frame is in. The rails may have been overcut or are no longer true due to fitting that upper improperly. You also don't know if the prep work on the internals was done properly. Too many unknowns.
  9. As Garmil suggests, there are way too many variables to even come up with a generalization. While 40,000 rounds might wear out an Open Gun's barrel shooting jacketed bullets at 1400 FPS, that same round count would probably leave lots of life in a Polymer Gun's barrel shooting coated lead at 900 FPS.
  10. If it's dragging without chambering a round, it sounds like it could be the Disconnector. If the Disco is binding in it's hole, it can cause the symptoms you're experiencing. Take the slide off and try pushing the Disco down with a punch. Does it move smoothly up and down? Now try it with the trigger depressed. Does it pop up smoothly after you release the trigger? If it's sticky, it may be interference in the Disco hole or improperly adjusted pre-travel causing the Disco to bind on the Sear Legs. Also need to look for any obvious interference issues such as the ejector dragging on the slide.
  11. The Yavapai slide fixture is also set up to cut a 1 degree angle.
  12. That makes sense. I have heard of folks shortening the striker block lifter due to timing issues with some guns. What a terrible thing to happen due to some hobbyist gunsmithing. Based on the number of folks out there modifying their guns with little understanding of how things interact, I'm surprised there haven't been more incidents. I guess it's good to get things like this out in the open so people are aware of the dangers.
  13. I've seen the Burwell Trigger Job Powerpoint that has probably encouraged a lot of hobbyists to try and improve their M&P triggers. From what I remember, it involved changing the angle on the back end of the sear. I still don't see how this particular event happened while the gun was still in the holster as she indicates. Unless of course someone altered/removed the striker block, allowing the sear to release the striker without the trigger being pulled (which is what I think Pat was getting at earlier in this thread).
  14. Bottom of the page: http://www.dothangunclub.com/competitions/jabs-extreme-and-precision-tactical-alabama-sectional-uspsa-championship/