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About JRM83

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    Sees Target

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    Lorton, VA
  • Real Name
    Jordan R Moellendick

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  1. Because then I would have no wife and no Trubor when she takes it with her. Yeah, that would go over like a lead balloon. The kind of birthday present that ends with me sleeping on my best friend's couch!
  2. Looks like a medieval torture device strapped to the muzzle.
  3. Thanks for the feedback. I hadn't considered the possibility of the frame wearing unevenly with two slides. If I could find a used trubor or something similar around the $2k mark that would be a good alternative, but i haven't seen anything that cheap on the classifieds in a while. Although with the current market that is always a possibility. I will have to shoot Dan an email this week. I have heard nothing but good things.
  4. In regards to whether a handguard is a foregrip, a person could remove the handguard and then grab the barrel just like it was a handguard. What now? A barrel is a foregrip?
  5. I have an interesting, and possibly stupid for reasons I don't understand yet, solution to several gun "problems" I need to solve. I own two guns for competition - a CK Thunder open for USPSA which is my main sport, and an STI HexTac for IDPA and any random off-match that requires irons. I finally got my wife at least mildly interested in shooting when she discovered a gun that was actually fun to shoot in that same HexTac. I want to build her a pistol with an optic to keep things fun and interesting for her. I would also like a backup gun for USPSA open because in open sometimes stuff happens. Solution: Build a second upper for the HexTac to run 9 major with a compensator and slide mounted optic. Advantages: Still ESP legal Optic with minor loads = fun for wife Switch to backup open gun with an upper swap Easy loaner gun for that friend who wants to try open Much cheaper than a third gun Disadvantages: Slide-mounted optic Small magwell Currently I am thinking of running a Binary Engineering comp, popple holes, lightening cuts, and a slide mounted deltapoint pro. Questions: Is there a reason this is a really bad idea? Build suggestions? Smith suggestions? Cost or savings ideas? (I am ballparking around $1500 for the complete upper and machining based on no experience whatsoever) Something else to consider? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
  6. doesn't just cover modifications, it covers excluded features as well. As I am reading that rule it means that even if that gun has the feature from the factory it is still an excluded feature. The Glock 34 makes into ESP because of the SSP to ESP rule. Every gun that is SSP legal is also ESP legal. I'm not sure what pro series S&W you are talking about - the m&p? If so that makes it into ESP the same way. If that DVC 3 gun was legal then someone must have decided that the cuts on the DVC fell into the category of front cocking serrations.
  7. On second read, I think applies in that case (and to the DVC 3 gun) ESP Excluded Features and Modifications (Non-Inclusive list): A. Removal of material from the exterior of the slide other than front cocking serrations, tri-top, engraving, carry melts, and high power cuts. It specifies excluded FEATURES and modifications. I don't know if the through cuts on the Thunder or DVC are going to be considered "front cocking serrations".
  8. Reloading isn't rocket surgery, but it's not as simple as putting brass, powder, and primers into the press and pulling the handle repeatedly. There could be a lot of different factors that cause individual problems based on someone's setup Ex: when I first started loading pistol I used a Lee 4 die kit. I noticed that every once in a while a bullet would fall out of the case. I started checking headstamps and they were all CBC. Why did this happen? I am pretty sure I know the reason, but I wonder how obvious the problem would be to other reloaders, especially newer ones.
  9. You can have them make it with a bushing barrel.
  10. So does that mean the CK Thunder slide would also be legal since it comes that way from the factory?
  11. Good shooting! Here are some things I saw that might help: Stage 1 - You are only required to be retreating while you shoot. On that malfunction you could take a few steps forward unless the MD specified otherwise. Also, retreat SLOWER. There is absolutely no reason to be moving at any kind of speed on that stage. Anytime in IDPA you are shooting while retreating and have nowhere else to go you should be moving at a snail's pace. Stage 2 - Keep the gun high. It takes longer to get the gun up and back on target if you are reloading and moving with the gun at your midsection. It's also harder to hit the magwell when the gun is low. Stage 3 - Get the right position the first time. The little half step to get the far target on the left costs time. For the argument on retaining vs slide lock it really depends. You had 5 rounds left in the gun at the first position when you started the reload. Can you reload with retention faster than you can dump 5 rounds and reload from slide lock? How does the movement from position to position factor into that? On this stage I would say that RWR is the right call IF you can do it fast enough moving from position to position. If you are losing 1+ second getting to the next position because you are doing an RWR then it's not the right call. In general I think the RWR is a good skill to have in IDPA. The slowest part of the RWR is stowing the magazine. Pick your clothing to allow you a fast way to stow a mag. Vests are good, cargo pants are okay in a pinch. Also, move and transition faster. Keep up the good work!
  12. I don't know what the point of messing with dies to deal with different headstamp 9mm brass is. If you're already taking the time to sort the headstamps just toss the garbage brass like CBC in a bag and load the good stuff. 9mm is cheap and available to the point it's not worth going out of your way to use a few extra pieces of brass. Speaking of a sucker born every minute, I have a gallon ziploc bag filled to bursting with a bunch of shiny CBC, FM, IMT, Ammoload, and MaxxTECH brass for a low, low price...
  13. If I remember correctly the big problem with CBC brass is the case walls are thicker than most 9 brass.
  14. Bought 30k when PVI had them for $16/k last year. Bronze color, and haven't had any issues. Loaded around 6k or them so far.
  15. Out of curiosity, where is all of the danger coming from in setting a primer deeper with a hand primer? Assuming I am wearing eye protection, and not pointing the loaded round towards my face, what is the mode of failure that is going to cause me catastrophic injury? If the primer detonates, the powder will ignite. The bullet will only be under pressure until it leaves the case and likely won't have enough energy to cause any problems. The gas is being directed away from the case (pointed away from the human), and there isn't going to be enough pressure when the cartridge ignites to rupture the case before the bullet is gone and the pressure drops. I can possibly see some burns from the powder, but with the design of a hand primer like the RCBS universal hand primer that seems unlikely. I'm not advocating doing it, I just genuinely want to know what mode of failure is going to cause harm. Edit - Nevermind. Case rupture = bad. Wouldn't want this anywhere near my hand.