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About al503

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    muffin top
  • Birthday 03/21/1971

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    Portland, Oregon
  • Real Name
    Al Suh

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  1. .223 shell plate dies I think the locator pins, case feed plunger and brass expander are the same. Not 100% sure but I would think that the case feed adapter would be the same.
  2. Should be a nice load. It'll be soft but that should be enough powder to still make some gas for the comp.
  3. There's nothing wrong with the die. The hourglass or coke bottle shape is actually a good thing. People are using undersize dies (smaller diameter than the dillon) without issue. The taper will help with case tension and help prevent set back.
  4. The only currently available powders I consider for 9 major are: 3n38, SP2, AA7, and n105 (yes, you can make major with it.) I haven't tried the new Nobel Sports powders but would consider trying the slowest handgun powders. 3n38 and n105 are slow to load since they are compressed but you can use that to load them very long (almost to 38 Super length with a longer bullet) without worrying about setback. One other thing you can consider is to use the shortest bullet if you have to load on the shorter side. IE, MG 124JHP is longer than a Zero 125 JHP. Loaded to the same OAL, the zero is going to have a lower initial pressure spike.
  5. Its on the very slow end like 3n38, n105, sp2, etc. Many seem to be using WAC without issue. I like to play it safe. The slower, the better/safer in 9 major, IMHO. The only thing I didn't like about AA7 was that it is a little dirty. It's so slow that it doesn't have a complete burn, according to another member who ran my 124/125 load through quickload. With a much smaller charge and the fact that the bullet is in the barrel a touch longer, it seems to be a lot cleaner with the 135's in my limited testing so far.
  6. I've been doing some experimenting with 135 x-treme HP bullets that I had lying around. 8.15 grains of 3n38 at 1.2" got 168 from a 4.5" bbl with 4 small bbl holes and 169 in a 4.5" bbl with no holes. 9.4 grains of AA7 got about the same velocity. Loads are very accurate and much softer to shoot than 124/125 bullets.
  7. Shorter stroke (for those planning on only loading only pistol calibers.)
  8. I agree but there are lots of different aspects to consider with recoil springs. What weight is the spring you have in the pistol now? Some go very light 7 or 8 lbs, and you're probably going to have to replace it very frequently. You can go a lot longer with heavier springs as even as they wear down, they're still strong enough to push the slide back into battery.
  9. It could be a defective or worn out recoil spring. I take it you're using the factory recoil spring? How many rounds with it?
  10. Are you lubing the slide stop, the barrel lugs top and bottom, and in the barrel link?
  11. That definitely looks like a crack. Unlike Jedi's situation, I wouldn't put any more rounds through that pistol. Contact the builder and get a replacement going.
  12. Off the top of my head and I'm sure you've done this but: Check the ejector to make sure it's not damaged/broken. Taken a q-tip and cleaned out the extractor tunnel. Check out the extractor hook for damage and gunk build up. Slide a round under the hook to check for proper extractor tension. Any way you could be thumbing the slide? I have wolff/ismi/springco springs in pretty much every weight. You're welcome to try any/all of them. Al
  13. Love the bullet. Don't like the coating. It does smoke more than other alternatives. WST worked very well for me with them.
  14. Loosen the powder measure screws and rotate the entire measure slightly. Tighten the screws and see if that fixes it. If it feels worse, go the other way and try again. It could actually be the failsafe rod binding up with the rod guide bracket and/or the two bell crank parts. Hope I made sense.