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joninwv

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    Jon Leonard

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  1. I'm hoping to get to at least one Action Pistol event this year....hopefully they will still exist with the CMP taking over I was just wondering what sort of rimfire pistol I could use for Production Optics. From my reading it looks like it has to have an optic sight that rides on the slide. So that leaves out the normal choices of Ruger Mark or Browning Buckmarks. All I'm finding is the SIG P322 and the FN 502. Am I missing something? Thanks! Jon
  2. I bought a reamer and did mine as well. The sticky chambers seems to be a common problem. I was actually surprised how much metal was removed, but the chambers still felt "tight" after the reaming.
  3. It seems like some of the terminology might be confusing here to a new shooter. The first number that is important is the weight of the bullet(projectile) and in your case you said you had bought loaded cartridges with 115 grain and 124 grain bullets. That number is not the "power factor". The second number you are concerned with is the velocity of the projectile when shot from YOUR firearm. It can range from very slow (600 feet per second) to relatively fast (1300 feet per second). Again, this number is not the "power factor". You get power factor by multiplying the projectile weight by the velocity and then dividing by 1000. So, for example, a 115 grain bullet fired at 800 feet per second is... (115 * 800) / 1000 = 92 power factor you can make the 125 power factor that is required for production by either firing a light weight projectile fast, or by shooting a heavy projectile slow. Its a personal preference. For your specific case, your 115 grain ammunition would need to have a velocity of 1087 feet per second. While the 124 grain ammunition would need to have a velocity of 1008 feet per second to "make power factor".
  4. Does anyone know if there is a special procedure for classification with the 5 shot limit on Bug Revolvers? Seems like the shoot 6...reload...shoot 6 would be very difficult?
  5. I ran across some old posts about building a mover, and there were plans available via email. Does anyone have a set of plans they could email me? Multiple different ones would be great to compare. Thanks, Jon
  6. Look at the Evil Roy targets. Very reasonable price and easy to transport. http://www.letargets.com/content/at-202-evil-roy-target.asp
  7. The 15/22s run very well out of the box. They have excellent magazines as well that are inexpensive (about $15 on sale). Since they use standard AR parts for many things you can really soup them up. The 3-Gun triggers work very well. I'm very surprised we haven't seen aftermarket barrels for them yet, but I keep reading about them coming. The barrel is by far the heaviest part of the gun, so an aluminum barrel would work wonders on a 15/22. Since there are so many parts for ARs you can really customize them to exactly what you want. I think they are easier to clear as well, in the (hopefully) rare case of a jam.
  8. The reason is, that there are more things to do with the 10/22. If you want a top of the line rifle, you will replace the barrel, the trigger group, the stock.....a lot of people also replace the bolt, the springs, the charging handle and the magazine latch. There are some compensators that folks *swear* make a small but noticable difference. Then you have fancy sight mounts. You might also need a gunsmith to tune it after all those parts are purchased. There are about 1/2 a dozen people that shoot in my local area that have 10/22s they have 800+ dollars in the base rifle and the upgrades, with a couple well over $1000. Again, I'm just saying what top of the line rifles look like. The $200 or so difference in the base price is a small piece of the puzzle. Get the rifle that works best for you/her, regardless of price, and then start upgrading.
  9. We have a number of shooters with both the 15/22 and super light 10/22s. The fastest shooter we have uses a 15/22, but the margin is pretty slim. The cost difference between the 15/22 and the 10/22 is going to be minor once you start doing upgrades. If you go the 10/22 route, i would suggest using the 10 round mags, they seem to be more reliable, imho. The super light barrels and axiom stocks are a must have....at the point you want to be running with the top shooters. Most of these rifles are in the 3 to 3 1/4 lb range including optic. Its a combination of many factors that make this desirable, such as reduced overswing and that most people aren't body builders so the lighter the gun is the faster they can move it around.
  10. Tube fed rifles can be ok, especially if the shooter has some "speed loaders" for them. There are commercial ones, but a mcdonalds straw (they are bigger around) or a large aluminum knitting needle with the cap popped off work really well too, and are cheaper. Load the rifle all the way up, shoot a couple of strings, and then reload 10 or so rounds for 2 more strings, then reload one more time for the final string. You just have to have ROs that know to count rounds in case someone fires more than 11 rounds (which results in a score of 30). My experience and advice will be different from others here as we run rimfire shoots every thursday evening during the summer and then once a month or so on Saturdays. That's a lot of shoots to run and a lot of shooters. So, I've done everything I can to organize as efficiently as possible to ensure that everything runs smoothly and quickly. Our shooters appreciate being able to complete the course of fire quickly, because then they can go through a second or even a third time. More shooting, less waiting
  11. Keep in mind there is a limit to the number of targets per stage....I believe its 7. Even though the maximum is 7, I would tend to keep it at 5 or so, to let more guns be competitive and prevent slowdowns in the match from reloading. If you have a couple of folks show up with tube fed rifles or double action revolvers, you will soon regret having lots of targets per stage
  12. At our matches we typically shoot rifle and pistol from the same position at the same targets. Sometimes we use extra targets that are rifle only at greater distances. Using the same position saves the movement and keeps the match running smoothly. Anything you have to reset/move/paint just slows things down. I have never really understood why people want to make the rifle stages harder than the pistol ones? I've been to several bigger regional matches and the rifle stages where much harder than the pistol ones. Why? If you make the targets smaller, then people miss....and the golden rule is 90% of the people hit the target 90% of the time. Put them further away, the same thing happens. The worst, is when you spread them out far apart, which imho makes the stage more dangerous as new and inexperienced shooters can over-swing, or actually lose control of the firearm. It also seems like spreading the rifle targets out falls more into the category of....its a rifle its supposed to be harder....mentality. I say, make the rifle stages simple, and straight forward, just like the pistol ones (or use the exact same stages for both). People love to shoot fast! Let them do it
  13. I would steer well clear of mild steel. It just won't hold up and will almost certainly become dangerous in short order. I've seen people try to get by with mild steel and *always* are sorry when they just have to buy the same targets again...but in a better grade of steel. The safety of your setup depends on two things...the steel being HARD and FLAT. Mild steel won't be either for long. If you want to save some money, use 3/8" T1. Its about 325 hardness, and is much cheaper than AR500. Just don't count on it last indefinately, as its just a stop gap until you can afford some targets that will last. Be very picky about what you let people shoot on it. NO magnum loads....which would include 357Mag, 44 Mag, 10mm, 357 sig, etc. Just ball 9mm, 38 specials, lead 45 acp, etc.
  14. I think merging the two divisions and trying to make them equal again would be a mistake. ESR and SSR were created to give each type of revolver a place go shoot on even footing. But everyone voted (by participation) and ESR isn't popular enough to keep. Why would/should they risk destroying the division that did work to support a gun that has already proven itself to be unpopular. As the old saying goes...Why cut off your nose to spite your face?
  15. I would recommend as a minimum a Burris FastFire III....they are about $200.
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