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techj

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Everything posted by techj

  1. +1 on ACME's. I've gone with them for 9, 38/357 and 44. FWIW - I was a big user of Blue Bullets and think they are great as well but prefer the finish on the ACME's (no smurf fingers). Also, with the ACME's their NLG design works for me (I have some CZ's) whereas with the Blues I had to use their TC design to get my loading.
  2. Blue Bullets with the TC profile worked well for me for loading CZ, Glock & 1911. Since then I've gone to Acme's which required a shorter OAL.
  3. Bought 3 of the KCI 33 rounders and I use them for practice only. Even then I had to replace the springs w/Wolff ones for them to be reliable...with the factory springs they would fail to feed 1-2 per mag. When I replaced the springs one them was pretty much out of shape. I don't have confidence that the base plates will hold up from being dropped much, if at all. For the price - and not for serious use - they're fine. If you get them cheap enough it can be a good deal. When I bought mine last year I was able to get them for $12.95/each on sale and then bought the Wolff springs in a 3-pack for about $25 (including shipping).
  4. Bought the dramworx hopper for my LNL...only regret is that I didn't buy it sooner. FWIW - Over the years Hornady has replaced my hopper twice...just after the last time I got tired of cleaning up the mess as it had loosened and I spilled about 1/2 hopper of powder.
  5. Mine works very well...I reload and use hot loads w/H110 under a 240gr. Would never use it for competition, except maybe pin shoots. Too heavy and only 8 rounds/mag. Lots of fun - my avatar is the muzzle flash from mine during daylight @ outdoor range.
  6. I either make them myself (recycling cardboard from packages) or buy from target barn.
  7. I use them with the insert and the glasses sit the same distance from my face...but since the RX insert is inside it is much closer to the eyes and much more likely to get smudges, etc. FWIW I use the elastic band rather than the ear pieces so they should always be the same distance away based upon elasticity. Still the best option for me as I have 2 sets of inserts (both eyes front sight focused and only dominant eye front sight focused) and several sets of glasses to interchange with based upon lighting conditions.
  8. I like the Blues (125gr TC) for my 9's as they work well in every one of my firearms & PCC. I like ACME for my revolvers. Have used others such as Bayou & SNS in the past and they have all been good.
  9. Local shop that roasts their own beans - get their blended whole beans and make my own espresso.
  10. After trying a bunch of different brands out a few years ago I settled on the Blue's for everything that I don't need to roll crimp (357, 45 Colt) as they don't have a crimp groove. Been buying case lots from them for at least 5 years now (9 & 45) and have only had a couple (literally 2-3) of bullets over the years with a problem - they were mistakes in production/packaging. FWIW my favorite 9 bullets are their 125 TC's as I can load them long and they run well in my 1911, CZ75, Glock and Ruger Carbine.
  11. Welcome from someone just south of you.
  12. +on 4.0 of BE - used this exclusively with coated bullets and ran like a champ while still using stock springs in my 1911.
  13. Thanks - I use a lot of the Blue's in other calibers...let me know how it goes when you try them for your SAA.
  14. Thanks to all - using 5 of BE under the 250 has so far (less than 100 rounds) proven to be accurate enough for my needs and I haven't seen any sign of leading...just lube & powder residue as expected. Will be trying the same load but with the 200's soon. After I use up the BE that I have I am going to get some Trail Boss to see how that does in comparison.
  15. So, I recently acquired an SAA with a 5 1/2" barrel. A friend of mine gave a substantial quantity of Oregon Trail Laser-Cut 200 & 250 gr RNFP bullets. I am looking for suggestions on a Cowboy/low recoil load using components (aforementioned bullets and powders below) that I already have rather than buying new. The powders that I have are Bullseye, AA#5, Zip, True Blue and Silhouette. The loads will not be for competition but for plinking, limited to a maximum of 25 yards. Any insight or suggestions would be appreciated.
  16. FWIW - I use the Blues exclusively in 9 and when I got a CZ found that the bullet profile (RN) that worked so well in my other 9's wouldn't pass the plunk. So, I went with their TC profile and can now load fairly long and they pass the test - and run well - in all of my 9's. In both cases I use their 125gr.
  17. Sounds like something is binding up - have you checked the linkages on the arms that attach to the rotor? Does the rotor move freely? Is the powder drop loose and shifting in its bushing (Hornady will send you shims - for free- to tighten if you ask) ? Are the linkage arms rubbing/pressing on another die (i.e. bullet feeder)? Is the powder baffle installed? Only times I ever had problems was with extruded rifle powders that would sometimes cause the rotor to hang up a bit. BTW - the best solution I found for ensuring that powder has dropped properly was great lighting - I use this: UFO Reloading press led light … it lights from the side and from above.
  18. IMHO unless you are using bullets that would be a problem with seat/crimp in one station (i.e. some coated & plated) I would combine those two first as there would be fewer adjustments/fine tuning required vs the PTX.
  19. With Blue's 125's and PP 4.6 I was getting 1,040 fps out of a Glock 17.
  20. I use one-shot when I'm done with any given caliber (anywhere from 500 to 5,000 rounds). Haven't disassembled to clean in years.
  21. Finally made it to the range today and no problems with a little over 200 rounds...so it looks fixed. When I get to 500+ then I'll call it actually fixed.
  22. Went to the range yesterday and ran 216 rounds – problem occurred 6 times (different mags, sequence in mag, etc.). After doing some more ‘net research (thanks to the insight Tol36) I came about the info. on false resets related to the trigger bar spring not riding perfectly in the trigger bar. Closely – lots of light and a magnifier with the grips off for a bottom view – I did see where the right side was barely out of the groove whereas the left side was riding perfectly within the groove. So, I bent the right side enough to ride in the groove and dry fired some more – about 100 DA’s and 25 SA’s (racking the slide each time) without a hitch. But based upon the low occurrence rate that may not reflect the real world. Unfortunately, I can only get out to the range about 1xweek so it will have to wait until next week to find out if this fixed the problem or not.
  23. If I get a new or used gun that has a lot of gunk or preservative on it; I will soak/scrub in mineral spirits (removing the grip panels first) and then dry with compressed air. It then gets a spray on coating of Ballistol and more compressed air. To me the only downside of mineral spirits is that it will strip all of the lube off so you really need to dry and lube the firearm ASAP. After that I just use Ballistol as my CLP and it has worked well on all of my firearms. The few that require grease in certain spots I will use tetra. Only time I use anything else is if I suspect that some grit is stuck where I can't get to it without disassembly and don't want to disassemble, I will use some Hornady One-Shot gun cleaner/lube on it.
  24. I’ve rechecked everything that I could including the position of the trigger bar and the movement of the trigger bar when the trigger is released and everything looks fine. Even removed and reinstalled the trigger spring. Even though I know it was clean I’ve re-cleaned the gun and blasted the sear cage (w/Hornady one-shot gun cleaner & compressed air). Nothing came out that I could see. Extensively dry-fired (over 100 pulls in DA and at least 50 in SA) without a hitch….but that was the case before the malfs during my last range trip. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to get to the range to try again until early next week. I will post results – and maybe more questions – after that trip. Thanks for all of the input.
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