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About vtecpaoche

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Dragon Chow
  1. I tried nail polish as well as hair dryer. No luck. The chicago screw just kept spinning around. I finally got it loose by touching the screw with the tip of a soldering iron. It broke the loctite loose and made removing the screw easy. Best part was no damage to the kydex unlike the hair dryer.
  2. Have you tried to reach out to Nelson Custom? They responded very quickly to me when I asked if their mags work with the Marvel Conversion. They said it does not normally but they will make some modifications for it to work. I have not really put enough rounds to say that it works or not.
  3. Funny, I just got a DAA thumbrest. The screws supplied were too big to fit into the stock CK hole. I was just going to ask and my question was already answered. I'm going to order some longer ones and will cut them down to size as well. Thanks for answering the question before I even ask!
  4. It's on it's way back to C-more right now. I'm hoping the replacement works better. If not, I'll need to find the rail mount and throw it on my 22lr pistol to play in rimfire pistol open.
  5. Thanks for confirming. I'm curious as to why the range of adjustment is different for each RTS2 I have received. You would figure the quality control would be more consistent. I would go the shim route if it fitted as that would give me more adjustment but my concern is that there is something indeed defective on the current sight such as the glass is loose which is what a fellow competitor here had an issue with. He finally gave up on the RTS2 and went with the DeltaPoint Pro.
  6. Yes, but the poster sent back their RTS2 for repairs as they thought the adjustment screw continued to spin while the lock screw was tight. My issue is a bit different as I've run out of adjustment. I'm on my 3rd RTS2 and I'm feeling pretty frustrated with the dot. I did read that post and backed the lock screw sufficiently by going 2 full turns instead of just 1 1/2 turns in my last range session with no luck. I'm trying to see if there are other options and if other people have had limitations of the dot adjustment after receiving a replacement. It just seems weird that my V3 could zero but the replacement V4 could not. The only thing to really change between the two is the dot.
  7. I'm on my third RTS2 now and still going thru issues. The first one came with my CK Arms gun that didn't have sufficient elevation either and was about an inch low. I got a replacement that was running a V3 board that zeroed right out of the box. I had that one for 2 years and the dot started cutting out during matches and even during dry fire sessions. That was sent back and I got a replacement this March with a V4 board. Unfortunately, there is insufficient elevation again. When I went to zero at 20 yards, I was not even hitting the target so I moved up to 10 yards. At 10 yards, all my hits were low. I tried to raise the elevation and the highest I got was about 3-4 inches low and the elevation was maxed out. I'm trying to work with C-More on this. It would sound logical if the mount was an issue if the second RTS2 did not zero as soon as I put it on the mount. The mount is a Cheely mount that came with the CK Arms. I guess I could go with getting a blank mount and then drilling the holes exact but if I have to RMA the RTS2 again, I may run into the issue where the adjustment is different for each RTS2. Has anyone run into this before with a replacement RTS2? I'm also wondering if putting a shim would be an option and who makes one. I was looking at the DPP thread and it seems JP makes a shim for the J-Point that also seems to work with the DPP. I'm not sure if that would work for the RTS2 though. My last thought is to ditch the RTS2 entirely and go with a different dot which is frustrating as this is an expensive solution.
  8. You should use a trigger gauge to help you. I used this guide to set my pull weight. You can adjust it a little bit at a time to get it lower or higher. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull
  9. I have a similar issue this weekend with a RMA sight. I just got it back as the previous unit would cut out randomly. I mounted it back on and it was very low at 20 yards. I backed the screw out but I am not certain I backed it out 1-1/2 turns. I moved up as I could not see any hits at 20 yards. At about 10 yards, I was 3" low and had no more elevation. If I ran out of elevation and the lock screw was not all the way out, do I adjust the elevation screw all the way the other way? Would that potentially give me more elevation?
  10. Interesting, I guess I need to up the powder by .3 gr. I was using 3.4 gr of N320 on a 115 gr Ibejihead bullet in my 2011 and it would not cycle reliably. I didn't want to adjust the powder measure as it makes minor with a 145 gr bullet. I can also try to drop the recoil spring down to 7 lbs from the 8 lbs that I use for USPSA to see if that runs.
  11. You should add a chrono to your test. It would be interesting to know if the rounds you are using have enough energy to cycle the slide for a brand new gun. If the slide is not cycling properly due to weak loads, the next round may not be picked up. My CK Open gun came very tight to the point that you could not pull the slide back with the hammer down. I had many failure to feed during the break in process. Now that it is broken in, it runs with no issues.
  12. The change in the bell from .425 to .42 shouldn't cause any scraping. My concern is more the part that did not get belled which is lower in the case. I'm curious if anyone else experienced this issue with brass cases. I'm going to contact the person I purchased the brass from to see if they would be willing to share how they processed the brass and if there was any material that may have gone on the inside of the brass case. Worst case scenario is that I wet tumble these cases again with stainless media to see if that helps. It's a shame as these cases are really shiny. The alternate is to give up on these shiny brass and use the other brass I purchased. That would suck to just have 5k of this brass and not be able to use it.
  13. That's the funny part. The headstamps are all mixed. Just sampling a few and I found Federal, Win, Blazer, and Herters. The only commonality is that the shiny ones all came from one source.
  14. Here's the video: At the 40 second mark is when you see the moly start scraping off. One other thing to note is this is actually brass I purchased that was cleaned and polished. They are so shiny that they look brand new. I usually just wet tumble what brass I collect from the range but it does not get this shiny and I've run out of clean brass so I'm going thru what I purchased. I found some other brass I purchased from another supplier. I loaded it and it did not scrape the coating. I'm wondering if there is some coating on the inside of the brass that I'm using that is reducing the internal case volume. A quick measurement with my calipers show the internal diameter to be around .399 while the shiny brass is around .3965. Would that cause the issue?
  15. I've tried the more bell route. I've increased the bell to the point where I have to crank down on the crimp die so that the case will fall into the case gauge. This also resulted in the brass sticking to the Mr. Bullet Feeder expander and lots of force to remove it. When it gets to the bullet dropper, it is activating more than one bullet to fall and possibly causing damage to the dropper. When the case goes into the Redding CSD, the brass is clearly scraping on the sides of the die and very tough on the CSD as well as the brass. The results are the same with the moly coating scraped off. I removed the Redding CSD and put it on a single stage press. I slowly inserted the case with the bullet in. The bell of the case actually starts getting reduced before the bullet is seated. As I raise the ram to the point that bullet is starting to seat is when the moly started scraping off. Given that the bell is being removed before the bullet is seated, I'm not sure if more bell is going to help. I did pull one of the bullets out and the coating is definitely being scraped off the sides. I'll get a video up shortly of the seating process.