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About vtecpaoche

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Dragon Chow
  1. Interesting, I guess I need to up the powder by .3 gr. I was using 3.4 gr of N320 on a 115 gr Ibejihead bullet in my 2011 and it would not cycle reliably. I didn't want to adjust the powder measure as it makes minor with a 145 gr bullet. I can also try to drop the recoil spring down to 7 lbs from the 8 lbs that I use for USPSA to see if that runs.
  2. You should add a chrono to your test. It would be interesting to know if the rounds you are using have enough energy to cycle the slide for a brand new gun. If the slide is not cycling properly due to weak loads, the next round may not be picked up. My CK Open gun came very tight to the point that you could not pull the slide back with the hammer down. I had many failure to feed during the break in process. Now that it is broken in, it runs with no issues.
  3. The change in the bell from .425 to .42 shouldn't cause any scraping. My concern is more the part that did not get belled which is lower in the case. I'm curious if anyone else experienced this issue with brass cases. I'm going to contact the person I purchased the brass from to see if they would be willing to share how they processed the brass and if there was any material that may have gone on the inside of the brass case. Worst case scenario is that I wet tumble these cases again with stainless media to see if that helps. It's a shame as these cases are really shiny. The alternate is to give up on these shiny brass and use the other brass I purchased. That would suck to just have 5k of this brass and not be able to use it.
  4. That's the funny part. The headstamps are all mixed. Just sampling a few and I found Federal, Win, Blazer, and Herters. The only commonality is that the shiny ones all came from one source.
  5. Here's the video: At the 40 second mark is when you see the moly start scraping off. One other thing to note is this is actually brass I purchased that was cleaned and polished. They are so shiny that they look brand new. I usually just wet tumble what brass I collect from the range but it does not get this shiny and I've run out of clean brass so I'm going thru what I purchased. I found some other brass I purchased from another supplier. I loaded it and it did not scrape the coating. I'm wondering if there is some coating on the inside of the brass that I'm using that is reducing the internal case volume. A quick measurement with my calipers show the internal diameter to be around .399 while the shiny brass is around .3965. Would that cause the issue?
  6. I've tried the more bell route. I've increased the bell to the point where I have to crank down on the crimp die so that the case will fall into the case gauge. This also resulted in the brass sticking to the Mr. Bullet Feeder expander and lots of force to remove it. When it gets to the bullet dropper, it is activating more than one bullet to fall and possibly causing damage to the dropper. When the case goes into the Redding CSD, the brass is clearly scraping on the sides of the die and very tough on the CSD as well as the brass. The results are the same with the moly coating scraped off. I removed the Redding CSD and put it on a single stage press. I slowly inserted the case with the bullet in. The bell of the case actually starts getting reduced before the bullet is seated. As I raise the ram to the point that bullet is starting to seat is when the moly started scraping off. Given that the bell is being removed before the bullet is seated, I'm not sure if more bell is going to help. I did pull one of the bullets out and the coating is definitely being scraped off the sides. I'll get a video up shortly of the seating process.
  7. I'm still playing around with the Redding CSD. I took it apart. There is some moly coating on the inside as well as the steam. I cleaned it all out and re-assembled. It seems the moly coating is scraping off when the seating stem meets resistance as I ran it without the top of the die to see if anything is binding. What little contact the die body has with the brass is not touching the bullet in anyway. I can try backing out the Redding CSD but the it does not really do any crimping. It requires a separate crimp die in order for the bullet to case gauge.
  8. Thanks, this was the video I used to set up the die. There really was no other good videos out there. I went back to set the bell as per the video. The measured bell after going thru the Redding Seating die is not quite concentric with it varying between .42 all the way up to .423. The bell is flared to a concentric .425. The brass barely scrapes along the inside of the seating die. I also removed the U-die and set up the standard Lee sizing die. I tried to load a bullet after setting this and the result is the same with the scraping of the moly coating. This is almost frustrating enough to go back to the Lee seating die.
  9. I reset the flaring as well as the crimp die and took some pictures. I also measured the diameter of the bullets to ensure they are the right width. The first picture shows the bullet sits well with the current flare. After seating, you can see the moly coating scraped off. In the second picture, you do not see as much of the coating scraped off on the other side although it is still scraping. I can flare it out the brass a bit more to reduce the scraping. When seating the bullet, you can definitely hear the scraping sound as the bullet is being seated.
  10. I've recently switched to a Redding Competition Bullet Seating Die from a Lee Bullet Seating Die. I'm loading on a Dillon XL 650 with the following dies: 1-Lee U-Die 2-Dillon Powder Die w/ Mr Bullet Feeder Powder Funnel 3-Mr Bullet Feeder Dropper 4-Redding Competition Seating Die 5-Lee Factory Crimp Die I'm using Ibejihead 180 gr 40 S&W in the RNFP profile. The brass are range pickup brass. It seems like I was getting a decent amount of failures out of every batch when I was using the Lee Bullet Seating Die so I figured I would switch to the Redding Seating Die to see if that would fix it. With the Redding Bullet Seating Die, the moly coating is getting scraped off every bullet I seat. I increased the case mouth flaring but it seems to still be scraping the coating off. On top of it, it is causing issues with the Mr. Bullet Feeder Dropper as it is dropping two bullets instead of one every so often. Increasing the flaring seems to have also caused the rounds to not case gauge without increasing the crimp on the Lee FCD. The press is also very hard to operate while trying to separate the brass from the powder funnel so I do not think increasing the flaring anymore will help. At this point, I think increasing the flaring anymore will causing damage to the brass as well as the dies so I backed it off. What I noticed at a certain point is the moly coating is only scraping off on one side regardless of how much I flare it. I'm curious as to whether the bullet stem of the Redding bullet seating die is contacting the bullet incorrectly and is pushing bullet in at an angle causing the scraping. I'm tempted to switch back to the Lee Seating Die as scraping the moly coating and lead off each complete bullet is a big PITA. The issue why I was getting so many rejects before was more due to Glock bulged bullets. The U-die helped but did not solve the bulge problem. I did get the Redding G-RX push thru die and that seems to have solved the problem. I think the U-die may not be of much use anymore with the G-RX die and I may just switch back to a regular Lee sizing die to put less stress on the brass. Now, I know why people go with a Case Pro. I'd like to keep the Redding Competition Seating Die and try to get it to work as it's an expensive die but I'm just thinking the bullet seating stem isn't working with the bullet profile. Any guidance on this would be much appreciated.
  11. The best bet is to partner up with someone who has some equipment or has all the equipment. I practice with a buddy. He usually brings all the target stands and other equipment. I usually bring stands as well but they usually stay in the box. The stands I got are from GT Targets which fold.
  12. I like this idea. It looks like the power adaptor is sold out. Would something like this work? Probably a bit excessive as you only need two plugs instead of 4 but it is a combo splitter and power supply. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019LV4NNI?psc=1
  13. I'm curious about this too. I have a KKM barrel in .355. I get ok accuracy with 145g bullets but I think my 2011 in 40 is more accurate. The NM 9mm KKM barrels are known for their 1-32 twist accuracy using 115g bullets. I'll have to check the twist on mine but it seems the standard twist is 1-16 or 1-18 from their website. I read heavier grain bullets are not as accurate and hence loading lighter grain bullets is better for accuracy. I'll try loading lighter bullets to see if this changes anything.
  14. For charge checking, most battery powered digital scales are sufficient. I had a Hornady that I used for a while but it started walking all over the place. I then replaced it with a Gemini 20 that I picked up on Amazon that is pretty solid. It seems the Frankford Arsenal digital scale is another popular option on the forum. I recently started loading rifle rounds and found that the battery powered digital scales would turn off as I'm trying to fine tune the powder measurement or constantly replacing batteries. I wanted a plug in unit to solve the issues and went with the GemPro 250 after reading numerous reviews here. It was either the Dillon or the GemPro.
  15. It doesn't even look like there are many authorized dealers or distributors. Quick search on the internet shows that Steve from Triad Tactical will warranty and repair it here for you instead which is pretty cool. Gel cups are definitely a must. I love mine and it's so comfortable compared to my old Impact Sport. I got mine from DSG Arms. They have the green camo with gel cups on sale for $224 plus $5 shipping. You will need to register and login to see the price.