FightFireJay

1.069"? I've never loaded for a 9mm revolver. For a pistol we take chamber and magazine limitations into consideration. For a revolver I suppose the cylinder is both, how long is the cylinder? I suppose there's also a consideration to make sure that you have enough crimp/purchase on the bullet to prevent what cartridge from lengthening under recoil.

Dob they measure out at .357" or .358"?

Guilty as charged. I have at least half a dozen various pistol powders when I'm sure I can make do with 1 or 2 lol. Given the large number of appropriate powder recommendations (if it were me) I'd probably find a load in there that had a decent margin of safety and was supported with published load data (Alliant and Accurate/Ramshot have 9mm +P data if I recall correctly).

I misread that the HST info was pulled bullets not loaded ammo. But this is also kind of my point, if the purpose is for self defense then perhaps replicating the approximate factory velocity is a good starting place to ensure proper terminal ballistics. HSTs are pretty forgiving of short barrels and Lowe velocity but they are typically at the shallow end of penetration. Going above factory ammo may further decrease penetration by increasing expansion. I'm not saying any of the information given is wrong nor am I disapproving of the OPs intentions, I was just looking for the whole picture.

Wolverine, You've told us your goals but I'm curious as to the "Why". I assume you aren't shooting competition, or we'd be talking PF, it's not hunting, not for Bullseye, etc. Are you trying to run a finicky subgun? I'm wondering if you're over thinking this. Whatever your reasoning for NATO spec ammo different powders only give nuanced difference in feel. Why choose to make higher recoiling practice ammo and then search out a slightly lower recoil powder? Especially when you already have 2 powders on hand that fit the bill?

Shell Shock Technologies. Cool stuff, durable, lighter than brass, increased case capacity, and reloadable (with a special die). Supposedly it is cost effective to produce as well.

It sounds like the striker is slipping off of the sear and the striker block is the only thing keeping the pistol from discharging. Pulling the slide back resets the striker on the sear. I think I'd start by checking or replacing the sear spring. I'd also take a hard look at the sear/striker engagement surfaces for wear. How many problem free rounds do you have through the M&P with these trigger parts? Have you replaced any other parts recently (like the striker)?

Well, looking at the time/date stamp, they've all had 11 years to get good.

The general consensus is that Winchester makes the new centerfire, rimfire, and shotshells ammo for the Herter's line. We know for sure that S&B used to make the Herter's black and red box ammo and CCI used to make their black and blue box ammo (aluminum case poly coated bullets). Regarding the flash hole, I've seen bigger burs and more off center than posted above by just about every mfg, except maybe premium rifle brass. Lol

While that would be nice, I think if anything they would want to support Crimson Trace and not a direct competitor like Sig.

How could they be plastic? Does the optic screwed through the plate into the slide?

If indeed it is out of time (no trigger loop, but USB radiuses edge on striker block) there will likely be some peening of the safety arm on the striker. I'd inspect that first. If it looks good, I'd install a known good striker assembly from one of your other guns. That should help diagnose it pretty quick.

I don't think it's as big of a concern compared to a 1911, but it may be possible. To alleviate your concerns you can pick up the magazine sleeves that are meant for just this thing. S&W makes them and I think so does X-Grip and Pachmyr.

Only time I ever had issues with bullet setback (in a pistol caliber) was with a bad die that didn't resize brass appropriately. Replaced the sizing die and I had neck tension to spare. But to be sure we should cover the basics. - did you adjust the sizing die all the way down to the shell holder? - how much are you expanding the case mouth? - have you measured the OD of the bullets to make sure they aren't .355 instead of .357?

Any chance a "1.0" could be converted to an M2.0 with a seat housing block and appropriate trigger/sear components? https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/3006369