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I thought that was Cowboy Action...

Oh, I did it to the car, on the kneeling shots.

I shot a match this weekend (run & gun type 2-gun) that featured the need to roll the rifle 90 degrees to make shots on 2 stages. (One was under a car, one target each right and left handed, and the other was through a very low horizontal port.) It gave me a really tough time. I've done it before, with an EoTech at relatively short (25-50m) ranges. This time it was with a 1-4x scope, at something like 75-125m or so, and it gave me fits. Can anyone descripe What shooting is such a position does to the relationship between POA and POI? And any tips for practicing such shooting if your local range discourages such unconventional things?

I'm guessing Versailles, Missouri. (My Google-fu found two Lead Farm ranges - one if Versialles, MO, and one in Lubbock, TX)

I just did my first run & gun event this past weekend - the Waco Tactical Fitness WTF Tactical Biathlon. The event had a 10km run with 7 shooting stages on Saturday, and a 5km event with 6 shooting stages on Sunday. I did the 5k. wtfbiathlon.com I had a lot of fun, but then, I'm a masochist who likes running and obstacle course races like the Spartan Race. (It showed, too - I placed 18th overall in the 5k, with my raw run time being 12th and my average shooting stage placing around 21st.) Up to now, my main shooting sports have been USPSA and 3-gun. And of course, the equipment set for RNG is different than either. I'm retired Army, and used my surplus gear, my 3-gun rifle, and my full-size carry pistol. The only thing I had to buy was a retention holster. Of course, I'l want to improve my equipment. But an excuse to build another rifle is never a bad thing!

This is what I was wondering about, since the -C appellation tends to designate a 'compact' model. I'm hoping that the full size will have a 5" barrel. I'd really love it if my department would choose the CZ over Glocks for the next replacement cycle, but I'm sure that won't happen.

As long as I don't mind shooting irons, I've got the long barrel option covered with an M14 clone (which I j ust discovered I have over 20 magazines for). Or a Garand. Those are fun too. And my local club (CCC in Millican, TX - look for their match guys under Dissident Arms Multigun on FB.) can do 500-600 yards when they feel like setting it up. And at least one stage that include 300+ is normal. (I actually hit the gong at 550 with the Garand. It went BANG - PING - "Hit!" - Beep! Great feeling.) I've seen Dan run that 20" gun - we RO'd Stage 6 at FN 2015 together. He was one of the folks I was hoping would respond.

Some I'm looking at (slowly) bringing together the parts to build an AR-10 type rifle. DPMS pattern, so I guess actually an LR-308 if you want to be picky. My questions are thus: 1) Barrel length - 16" or 18"? 2) Gas: mid or rifle? How much difference does it make with the .308? I know rifle length and 18" is the most popular for .223 (and I've got one of those), but I'm clueless with the .308.

It's factory (Freedom), but that wasn't the issue. It wouldn't feed to start - either with the bolt locked to the rear and released with the bolt release lever, or when inserting the mag with the bolt forward, and then racking and releasing the charging handle. It never had a change to be a gas/ammo issue, because the rounds never made it into the chamber to be fired in the first place.

^^^This. Box? What box?

Due to weather cancellations and schedule conflicts, I finally got to shoot my first 3 gun match of the year. Second stage, my brand new (first time at a match) AR decides that, nope, it just doesn't want to feed. At all. From any of the three available mags. 21 targets, failed to engage. Luckily, I brought a spare rifle. Third stage, my shotgun, which has seen me through many matches with no issues, decided that double firing would be a fun thing to try. I think I managed to get 1 target on that one. Luckily, I brought a spare shotgun (which I almost never do, especially for local matches.) Pump guns don't double. Hi ho, hi ho, it's to the 'smith I go...

It took me forever to get all the parts, I finally get to run it in a match, and on the second stage it refuses to feed. Specs: Aero Precision upper w/M4 feed ramps Nordic 18" barrel Seekins LW BCG JP Silent Capture buffer spring assy in a rifle buffer tube. During test fire and getting the scope zeroed, I fired 20 rounds with no problems. First stage of the match, 28 rounds, no issues. Second stage, with 3 different mags (2x 30 round PMags, 1x 20 round Lancer), the rifle would not feed the rounds into the chamber. This was starting with the bolt to the rear, using the bolt release. Rounds were stuck at an upward angle, like they snagged on something or there was too much friction somewhere in the feed path. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures. I tried to duplicate the problem at home and haven't been able to. Most of the time, the bolt group just stops about 1/2" shy of going fully into battery. About 1 try out of 4, it will go properly into battery. Part of me wonders if the JP spring assy and the Seekins BCG aren't a happy combo. Or maybe I just need to lube the snot out of it and take it to the range to run 100 rounds or so through it to get it broken in. Thoughts?

OK, and now to see if anyone else actually checks this thread: last match, on the third stage of the day, my -712 decided to start double firing. So I stopped using it and ran my Remmy 870 for the final stage. Background: on the previous stage, the 712 was having ejection issues, which experience has told me usually indicates it needs to be lubed. (712s like to run wet, this we know.) While lubing, the bolt slipped, knocking the dripper tip out of the (Slipstream) lube bottle and dumping something like 1/3-1/2 the bottle into the action. I cleaned up the mess as best I could, but the next stage it decided to start double firing, (which ended the shotgun portion of the stage for me.) So today I disassembled and wiped down the gun, and cleaned out the trigger assembly as best I could. Function checks seem to indicate that, if I fire it with live ammo, it's probably going to double again. If I pull and release the trigger, then cycle the bolt to reset the hammer with the trigger released, it does fine. But if I pull and hold the trigger, cycle the bolt, the hammer releases when I release the trigger. I'm not sure if I need to completely break down the trigger assembly and try to clean it more, or just try replacing the hammer and sear. (If I can figure out how to order them.)

My tube holds 9 rounds (I think that actually makes it a +5).

Random question: can any of the top break Smiths use speedloaders?