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About RiggerJJ

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    Denver, CO
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    JJ Johnson

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  1. The platform that the primers walk around on needs to be cleaned quite often. I use simple green. I've even heard of one that saw constant use getting sandblasted to resurface the platform... jj
  2. I prefer the simple approach; don't get the brass wet in the first place... 😁
  3. Want2, Jeese, I didn't single out anyone (other than the OP) in fact, you are the only other one in this thread that did acknowledge that the rf100 is automatic and reliable. Feeling guilty? A couple of faupas in your rather dramatic rhetoric thou; Decapping live primers IS safe when done safely. The RF is not the only culprit for flipped primers. It can happen in the press as well. The RF CAN be set up to do the process perfectly with NO flipped primers. Mine is...so yes, all in a thousand are facing the same direction. As for those rounds with a flipped primer, if you don't take them apart, how do you SAFELY dispose of them? Throw them in the trash and let the garbage man deal with them? A live round can be disassembled safely and most if not all components recovered. And for bronco, you CAN set the rf up to be perfect. Those who choose to badmouth it did not spend the time to get it perfect. Once its there, its there. Large or small. jj
  4. What the OP (and others) fail to acknowledge is that the RF100 is automatic. Dump in a tray of primers and turn it on, and forget it. When you need more they are ready.
  5. The name of the game in loading for auto loaders is "get er done". Handling brass multiple times wastes time. Like using a pencil sharpener type trimmer, or a drill mounted one. It takes extra time and effort (and makes your fingers sore) handling the cases. With a press mounted trimmer things go waaaay faster and you don't get carpal tunnel. jj
  6. For AR ammo, do yourself a favor and get a Dillon trimmer. Set it up on a dedicated processing head for your 650. Clean and lube the brass, then; Station1 - full length resize and decap Station 3 - trimmer Station 5 - m-die to prep case mouth for bullet. (I use the 1050 swag hold down die, same process) Dry tumble to remove lube. Swag primer pockets if using mil brass. Then set up a loading head. In station 1 use a universal decap die to remove any tumbling media stuck in the primer pocket, and prime, powder, seat bullet normally. Eta; do a slight crimp here with a taper crimp die to remove the case mouth expansion that the m-die puts in. For my precision bolt gun I use basically the same process after annealing, but use a neck sizer/decap in 1, a redding body die in 3 that bumps the shoulder .002, and a lee quick trim (manual trimmer) in 4. For the loading head I have nothing in 1, prime normally, and I hand trickle each powder drop, and use a Redding precision seat die...Runnout is non-existent. The whole process is much quicker than using a single stage, and If David Tubb can use a 650 for his precision loading, so can I... jj
  7. The obvious would be to take apart and clean the primer assembly and the platform...
  8. You do need to remove the primer assembly once in a while to clean under the wheel and to clean the assembly. Grime under the wheel will cause the problem you are having... jj
  9. That's why you don't spray into a pile of cases; The lube gets inside the case. Spritz into an empty container, add cases and shake. Then put the pile into the case feeder. No lube will contaminate the inside of the case. jj
  10. Bend your thumb so the tip of the thumb is pushing shells (instead of the pad) and the 1st knuckle is holding the lifter down. jj
  11. I run 2 zip ties, one between the 1st and 2nd station, sizer and swager, (swaging rod doesn't hit the case mouth on 223 or 308 anymore). And between the powder and seat die to eliminate powder slinging. It keeps the case fully seated in the shell plate so the case doesn't rock around, and it smooths the advance. Win-win! jj
  12. Yea, fixed it...autocorrect strikes again...