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About GregJ

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    Calls Shots

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    Warrenton, Va
  • Real Name
    Greg Jones
  1. Yes, I lube them, but not sure how much it actually helps to achieve this speed. I'm sure it may, but no idea how to verify.
  2. The spring is a nice idea. I ordered one but did not like how it was working. I hope this works well for you. This option worked better for me. FYI the funnel does not fit my newer 1050 case feeder. I had to trim it down a lot and with a little "redneck engineering" I got it to fit. I suspect it will eliminate bridged cases.
  3. Simple. I shoot at least once a week, minimum 600 rounds, times 52 weeks is 31,200 rounds. Add 2-3 matches a month avg 200 rounds each. It adds up quickly. Spend time reloading or shooting. Easy choice for me.
  4. This. With the exception of last year, I shot SS .45 for the first 6 years or so I shot USPSA. Last year I switched to minor, and love it. Stage break down (aka reloads) fits most matches better. As long as you shoot A's, the points are the same. Plus it is cheaper in the long run to shoot. Loading almost strictly 9 minor now, I can shoot SS, CO and PCC with the same load. ;cheers:
  5. I'm on my second 8# jug of E3. It meters well in my 1050. It does tend to stack up a bit between sessions, so I drop 4-5 cases before starting a load run. One advantage of the powder, the flakes are larger than the flash hole, so you wont gunk up your press with powder if a case(s) doesnt get a primer. It has been great for me so far in my 9 minor loads.
  6. I was having some play/slop in the handle. Turns out the issue was the journal keyway in the crank shaft was too big. I got a new crank shaft, key, and crank arm from Dillon, fixed the issue.
  7. Interesting. So I assume you process your brass first. You dont have decapping die, just in case?
  8. I dont think Dillon supplies this any more. I called them twice about this, and each time they were supposed to send me a new funnel, but never did. Mine is new, Nov 2016 built. My case feeder looks like Got2beshooting. I had this issue, but more frequently cases would jam up in the collet. I put a piece of plastic to act as a wiper, and so far have had neither issue. I'll put up a pic tonight.
  9. I did the same, but used a Zero 230gr RN, works like a charm.
  10. Take the bottom from a plastic 100 round box. Works perfect. I use this for 9mm and 45ACP.
  11. Dillon rocks. I sent them my okd crank shaft and key on mon. Today I received a new crank shaft, key, and crank arm. Will put it back together this weekend, but this looksa like problem solved. 👍🏻
  12. I wanted to dip my toes in CO, so I have been using my Phantom for it (only one in the safe that didnt already have a "job") for a few matches now. First thing I did was put a CGW trigger kit in, and it made a world of diff. So far it has worked quite well. I had been toying with the idea of getting an Accu Shadow for my primary, and use the Phantom as my backup, if I decided I wanted to play more in CO. The Phantom has the FPB, but with the CGW and a little polishing, I dont think it is an issue.
  13. I wet tumbled mine without decapping, then dried as you are. Had a helluva time with primers being pulled back. Turned out the primer was gluing itself in. Another reason to decap before wet tumbling. I decided to switch back to media tumbling, problem solved.
  14. Here is a video of the play in the handle as a result of the loose key way on the crank shaft. I secured the crank arm to the bench, and was lightly moving the crank handle.
  15. The handle on my 1050S has some addtional give in it. At the top or bottom of the stroke, I can push it, with not a lot of force, an additional amount to a hard stop. After a lot of examination, and pulling it apart, and more examination, I have verified the key way on the crank shaft is a little bit wider than the key. The key is not disfigured, and fits in the crank arm very snugly. This extra amount of room in the crank arm key way is what is causing the crank arm, and thus the handle, to have additional movement. This is causing me a lot of issues. I have an AmmoBot on the 1050, so it screws up the location of the home switch, which can do wierd things. I feel pretty sure it also contributes to the occasional high primers I have seen. And when there is a jam, I am sure the crank moves alignment due to the key way slop, and then things get out of kilter. I've seen a couple posts here with similar issue, but never found a resolution. I have been able to cut a couple of shims from a soda can to get the slop out of the key way. I have not tried it with this yet, as I will be calling Dillon today and see what they say. I have a video, and will try to post it, that shows the amount of play that is resulting in the end of the handle.