zen_grasshopper

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About zen_grasshopper

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 05/31/1980

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    sodakshooter.wordpress.com
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    Male
  • Location
    Elkton, South Dakota
  • Real Name
    Jonathan Anderson

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  1. I just poured it on top and lightly pressed it in.
  2. Not really sure, I think that the 46/70 grit feels like skateboard tape, but the 36 grit would be more aggressive.
  3. Just original JB Weld and that is 46/70 grit, if I did it again I would go with 36 grit.
  4. Worked well, a little chipping on the bottom of the grips on my dryfire/practice gun with the red grips from mags hitting it on missed reloads. I didn't rough up the aluminum so if I want to I can scrape it off with a razor knife with some effort to reapply. I just spread the JB Weld on in a thin layer with my finger and added the grit. Works great and since then I have done my 1911 grips and a Sig P320 frame.
  5. JB Weld for glue and that is 46-70 grit, but if I did it again I would go 36 grit. I just lightly coated the grips with my finger so that the holes wouldn't get filled with JB Weld. A bit has chipped off through use in the last year, but not bad and as I did it over the smooth aluminum you can remove it by scraping it off with a utility knife and do it again, but it doesn't come off easy. Different strokes for different folks. I have tried the Bogie palm swells, and other thick grips and they just didn't work for me as they were all too thin. Large hands, actually prefer the Tanfo frame, but they weren't available when I bought the Shadows.
  6. Silicon carbide plus Scales = super aggressive
  7. Anderson for 5%
  8. Make sure you degrease the screws and the female insert before applying LocTite. I have been using Racers for both production and single stack for several years and have never had them loosen with blue LocTite. I soak the screws in Acetone for 10 minutes before I assembled them, and then used a Q-tip to put some acetone in the female threads. Try not to get the acetone on the plastic. If they are not degreased properly before hand the LocTite will not hold.
  9. I haven't seen it with mine, but it makes me wonder if maybe your recoil spring is just a touch too long. If it is a bit long and the spring is binding when the slide is to the rear it would act as a solid stop and the bottom of the bushing is taking the force of the recoil. Please update after CZC gets back to you.
  10. Blue is my Accu-Shadow match gun, red is my Shadow practice/dry fire gun.
  11. I used the book, and the second time I just did it. The crank isn't that bad once you get the carrier cap bolt out. Mine was loctited in with about 600 ozs of the stuff! Thought I was going to break an allen wrench or strip the head so I used my butane torch to heat it up. You don't have to strip the crank to relube it, just put bearing grease in a grease syringe and inject it into the holes or pull the crank out slightly to lube the bearings. I only fully disassembled mine it to see what condition they were in and I like taking things apart. This video will show you how to disassemble and reassemble everything but the crank.
  12. First time I stripped the press to clean and lube took about 3 - 4 hours, but I went slow and careful. I just did it again a couple of days ago, and took it even further and removed the entire crank to inspect the needle bearings and relube. This time it only took about 2 hours total to disassemble, inspect, lube and reassemble and reset the swager.
  13. Decided to shoot Singlestack Nationals this year. Only 1911 I had was my old and beat Kimber in .45 so going to shoot it. Borrowed a buddies STI Trojan for a backup gun. As I primarily shoot Production and I have my Mark 7 setup for 9mm, I decided I better buy a 9mm to train with. Picked up a new STI Lawman 5.0 in 9mm for a song and I have had it just under 3 weeks. Really, really like it.
  14. Shot this the other day at a training session at the indoor range. 1 year and 4 months since the video that I posted above. Knocked about .6 of a second off the drill consistently. I did shoot this one from hands at side instead of surrender, but my draw times between the two are the same so it doesn't really matter.
  15. I have the low primer sensor, and have been looking at the Swage Sense, but I have loaded approximately 30k so far with no issues. If the press is setup well before adding the Mark 7 and you do proper preventative maintenance you can get away without any sensors. That said I don't have the issues with decapping some people seem to, I use a EGW U-die and I am still on the the original decapping pin and before the die was on my 1050 it was on my 550 and I haven't had a primer not drop or any ringers. That is with range pickup brass.