woodrow

I got rid of my Labradar and went with the G2 and immediately had a better experience. It being downrange is not as big a deal as the older stuff. It has its own battery so dont have to worry about running extension cords and such. I remember my old CED M2, I hated that thing. The set up sucked. The ir screen set up and the battery pack made that thing cost so much. I remember it cause I hated it so much haaha. Anyways... Compared to the Labradar I found the G2 to be more reliable, easier to set up, bluetooth is more reliable, the app is awesome. I can also shoot arrows through it without needing a microphone, I can chrono shot loads where Labradar can only read slugs...G2 meets all my requirements. In my case, if I kept he Labradar then I'd still need another chrono that can do the things Labradar couldn't. The Labradar is cool for metering just rifle and pistol. But after my experience I'd still go with the G2. Good luck man. Let us know what you get!

The DAA Racemaster has interchangeable locking blocks so one holster can fit many guns. They have a Para block available. If you don't want to spring for the Racemaster then there's the RacerX. I have Racemaster blocks for N frame, STI\SV, and Glock. Its a pretty nice st up. I have a Racemaster and a Safariland 014. The 014 should work as well. The description says 1911 and 2011 and thats what I have. The Para has the rounded trigger guard like 1911 so I think it'd work but I have not tried it.

Haaaha! Thats awesome. I was gonna say I'd try gassing my brass but I'm afraid it'd get all brittle and blow out on me! Haaaha, The FART...the things that are showing up around here are hilarious. There was a funny thing about potatoes potating on another post. Learn something new every day. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Dude, what are you talking about? Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

+1 on the cement mixer here. When I had the idea of a concrete project I picked up a poly barrel Kobalt from BLowes. While preparing the yard for concrete, I'd run batches with 5 gal pails of brass in the mixer. Was awesome! Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I had the same issue with my Warrior II. I found that the inside of the slide lock was too bulbous and the ogive of the ammo would push it up during feeding. I discovered it while looking inside to see what was happening and then saw copper on the blob. I just ground it down a bit and then it was fine. So yea take a peek at it and see if there's any copper on that part. Good luck, let us know what you find! Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I use the double hockey sticks out of One Shot for pistol and 5.56 and don't clean it off. Been using it for near 100k rounds now. This is for blaster and match ammo. Defense ammo is bought. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Check out GunBroker. $100+ all day long and people are bidding. There was one that ended on Sunday at $146 for a brick of Federal GMM primers. These are people voluntarily paying that much, so I don't consider that gouging. But a shop...its crappy and sucks but I don't hold it against them. I bet the shop didn't have any ammo or guns to sell either. They have to make money on something besides ear pro and range bags. *Edit: I didn't check out the store link until after I posted. But yea that store looks intentionally set up for gouging. I was referring to my local shops that have nothing to sell, can't order any guns, they have to keep the lights on somehow. I remember 12 years ago when this type of demand happened. Some stores could flourish, some managed, and some went under. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Man I crap you not with this story. So one time many years ago, I was in the garage and thought to play around with my scales. I had the Hornady electric powder charger electronic thing, the small Hornady digital scale, Franklin scale and my buddy brought over a a fancy Dillon thing. The only thing missing was a beam scale and it turns out we could've used it. Ok so I used one powder pan and tared each scale to it. I weighed a charge on the Hornady dispenser and it dispensed it. The programmed weight doesn't matter, you'll see. So it dispensed and beeped that its ready. The charge was correct. I then move the pan to another scale and its off, I move it to another scale and its off both target weight and from the previous scales, I move the pan to another scale and its off again both from the target and the other scales. I put the pan back in the Hornady dispenser and its different. So my buddy and I were standing there amazed at what we just saw. He tried it as well and the results were messed up too. One charge on four different scales weighed differently four times. AND no scale read the same as another. The Hornady wasn't even repeatable to itself! Wished I had a beam to be the control. So anyways, I guess my point is that there has to be faith in your gear no matter what. It seems as long as its consistent is what matters. The common accuracy of these budget scales is +/- 0.1gr. this gives you 0.2gr of variance that it will acount for aa being correct. Becareful because some of these budget scales are +/- 0.2gr. That means 0.4gr and that's not ok. Anyways this lesson taught me the small quirks mattered more than the function as they were all off. The Hornady dispenser ended up being the first to go cause it was slow and sucked at weighing. I still use the Frankford and still have the small Hornady scale. It lives tucked away on a shelf because everytime I use it I want to smash it into little pieces. The auto off drives me crazy! And no way to turn off the auto off!! Anyways, Frankford ftw... Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I use the Frankford Armory. Its like 20 bucks. I've used a bunch of others and I find this one to work really well. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Ohhh man yea thats a bummer. But lesson learned man. Glad you're aware and everything survived. Also good info about the coated bullet travel distance. Which brand were you using? I use Blue Bullets and just from handling them they feel slicker than HiTek coated. The finger pressure to pick them up causes them to spit out if my fingers, kinda like pinching a watermelon seed haaaha. I've thought about running the rcbs die. Glad to see it works. So these dies can catch no charge and double, but they don't catch minor difference right? But glad everything is good and thanks for the info. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I see you want to do quantity. I like your style. Cleaning brass isn't that big of a deal. It tumbles while you work the press. I used to tumble 5gal pails of brass in a cement mixer. 5gal is about 8k pieces of 9mm. I buy from Blue Bullets as well. Their 10% off 10k+ projos is a nice deal. If you're confident enough to start loading with a 750 and a MBF, then my opinion is to go to a 1050 or 1100 with the DAA dropper & expander instead. I use this set up and drop the projos in manually and I'm as fast or faster, more consistent and have better feeling with the press over using an automated feeder. The price should even out with this route too. The awesomest thing with the 1050/1100 is on board swaging. I notice a lot more 9mm brass with crimped primers (and those stupid 2 piece cases) and setting up the swage rod just right makes reloading life go a lot smoother. Anyways, I can easily cruise along at 1k rounds/hr with my set up. It's very efficient. I like to load a case of projos per session. So once you figure out your work flow and cadence, your loading session would be around 3-4 hours a month. That's pretty good time. Brass tumbles while you're loading and thats prepping for the next session. Just don't expect immediate awesome production with whatever set up you go with. Just like how you're learning to shoot faster and more precise, you have to learn loading as well to get faster and more precise. Scoring on components is going to bring cost down. I load the 150gr blues and it ends up around 10cents/rnd. I'm using Ramshot Competition. Max out rebates on primers too. Get the Hundo and plunk every round. Just think, you're looking to make a crap load of ammo and that mean there's the potential to make a crap load of BAD ammo. There's a lot of effd up 9mm brass out there. Theres also the 9major brass. The worst is discovering at a match that your ammo is bad. The Hundo does 100rmds at a time. You pick out the ones sticking out and thats your practice ammo. The good ones are for the match. You're going to run into brass sorting issues. It comes along with the territory. You can buy a giant bucket of brass and there's going to be an occasional 380 or 38supercomp that sneaks in there. This is where learning the machine comes in. I can tell if those buggers make it in because of the way the press feels and the sound of the brass. The more automated your make the press the more out of tune the user is to the press. Again all things that you'll learn... hopefully haaha. Hope you get set up and keep blasting away. Let us know what you get! Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I'm looking to build some different 140mm Glock 20 and 21 mags. Currently I have the Arredondo pads and don't want dump for more of them. Does anyone know if the SLR basepads will fit the gauge? TTI is 45 only and there's no 10mm. No 140mm from ETS. SLR so far is the only one I've found with a dedicated 10mm and 45acp magazine extension. I've asked them if it'll fit the gauge but they haven't gotten back to me, hopefull someone here knows or has a better solution. I wish there'd be more stuff out there for the big frame stuff. Thanks guys!

Maybe try a faster powder and load to power factor.... Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Anyone know if the 20rd 10mm ETS mags will fit the gauge? Any suggestions on how to build out a Glock 45/10mm mag that fits the gauge? I'm not sure if the Arredondo or TTI pads will fit either. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk