Vespid_Wasp

Thunder Valley was owned by a different entity, and has changed hands and the new owner is not firearms friendly, from what I had been told.

It would be mutually beneficial for the hotel owner and the nearby landowner who bought the rest of the wooded property. I would think....

Interesting!

No idea how many were made. I have one that I used for a build for PRS gas gun. Haven't made it to a single match with it. It's a very quality upper. There are still a few floating around available. I wouldn't hang onto it as a collectible. Use it and enjoy it. I used a JP LMOS carrier for both performance and the increased bearing surface doesn't eat away upper receiver material the way that mil-spec carriers do. I keep it well lubed and expect it to last through quite a few barrels.

I kept mine because sometimes having shotgun caddies that you can go prone with and not lose all your shells is a big enough advantage to make it worthwhile. Also a good secure way to segregate ammo where speed of loading isn't paramount. Quad loading is much faster and is primarily how I keep my shotgun fed but I'm going to hang onto my old 4x4s. Heck I still have some of my old california competeition works plastic 4 shell caddies. And use them occasionally.

DeadAir Keymo mounts will fix that problem for you.

Signed up and looking forward to it!

Told by whom? Some of the best shooters in the game use them.

Greetings all! I am sending my 2011 off for nitride treatment, and I need to remove the front and rear sight. I am having trouble finding any kind of definitive answer about removing the rear sight. Is it a simple directional tapered dovetail? Or do I need to knock out the hinge pin and remove a set screw. The hinge pin is quite small and appears to be staked in. I want to be certain before I proceed. Thank you.

Hello all. I won a cert at a match for a nitride treatment. The 2011 that I have currently has a cerakote finish. Should I be concerned about the surface of the frame and slide? I assume they will blast with aluminum oxide to strip the cerakote, and then bead blast to smooth the surface prior to nitriding. Is this an accurate assumption? I spoke to one of their representatives on the phone, and he gave me the impression that it was no big deal. Anyone have any experience with similar circumstances with H&M and an already finished pistol being sent in to refinish?

Has anyone seen a bent bolt carrier in their Stoeger? I may not be using the right terminology. The twin action bars that travel along the magazine tube that attach to the collar that compresses the action spring. I had never heard of this before but a buddy of mine who shoots a Stoeger showed me his and it was wavy and bent all to hell. I shoot an M2 but I picked up an M3000 because I found one for a screaming good deal for a backup and for a loaner gun for some friends who shoot with me. Did he assemble something incorrectly that lead to the damage?

I have my Razor in an ADM Recon-X but I have used Larue and Warne as well with excellent results. If I were buying a different mount for it right now I would go with a Warne X-Skel. I have a different LPV in a Warne RAMP and the build quality is excellent but it leaves me wanting a tiny bit more eye relief.

I'm probably a dinosaur but I am still using a Magpul UBR. I too like a rifle with some heft to it. I am faster with it on rifle plates at 100 yards offhand than with my lighter rifles.

Very much looking forward to it. I am bringing some newer shooters and they are very excited. We have been practicing on my home range. I know we aren't going to win but every new person I bring to the sport seems to wind up bringing 5 or 6 more as they get their friends into it!

Any slugs or buckshot necessary?

I don't think you are going to wind up in that position with a one-off custom lever action. It's like going water skiing with roller skates on your feet. There is a reason why it isn't done. You could go OLD school with a Sharps type buffalo rifle.

I didn't have any match grade ammo on hand but I did get the rifle together. Went out and shot some 55 and 50 gr through it, just to get on paper with the optic and to tune the gas system a bit. Rifle shoots VERY nice. Didn't have a proper bench available so I was shooting standing, leaning on a wire spool with the front on a sandbag, and managed to shoot a 5 round group that measured .636 center to center. With some factory ammo, Federal loaded with a ballistic tip bullet. So preliminary indications are good that this rifle will be easy to load for. It also shot all of the ammo that I tried close enough to the same point of impact that I couldn't see a difference between them, but I was not setup at a proper bench or prone like I would have liked. Next range trip will be more properly structured. A friend of mine who had never shot an AR-15 stopped by. He went 4 for 4 on steel from 100 to 220 yards away, and then we drove back and he made a first round hit on an full size IPSC steel at 503 yards holding for wind and elevation. I was able to easily see my bullet holes in paper at 100, and easily see my hits on steel at 500 from where the paint was knocked off. Tracking appeared to be perfect but I didn't do any extensive testing.

And this.

This.

I bought a PST Gen2 3-15x. I'm going to put this new upper on my 3-gun lower. I probably could have just used my 3-gun upper and swapped optics but that barrel is probably close to being toast.

Wound up going with a LaRue Stealth, 20".

JP was the first. I think JP is the best. I bought a JP for my 3-gun rifle back before there were all these other options. I needed another carrier to go in a monolithic upper where I don't want to the carrier to chew up an expensive receiver. I went with the JP again because of the increased bearing surface, even with the multitude of less expensive options on the market today. I would be amazed if you can wear out a QPQ JP carrier. Plus I have never seen Aim Surplus sponsor a match or put stuff on a prize table at a match I have been to.

For you guys who are shooting PRS Gas Gun in the light division with 223/5.56. What is the most common barrel length? I was thinking of a 22 or 24 inch barrel to squeeze all the velocity I reasonably could out of a 73 ELD, but I'm wondering where the trade off point is that the rifle becomes cumbersome. I am not put off by a rifle with some heft. I haven't weighed it but I suspect my 3-gun rifle is ballpark of 11lbs. My optic should arrive next week. I plan to initially put that optic on my 3-gun rifle to start learning the optic and making wind calls. I'm not in a hurry to finish this build. I am primarily a 3-gunner but I would like to hit a few of the PRS type matches down at RockCastle in 2018. I do not forsee a foray into real deal bolt gun PRS at ANY time in the near future. I would even be content attending my first match or two using the new optic, just placed on my 3-gun rifle. It's an 18" rifle gas. Shoots well enough but I have never had more then 6x magnification so I have spent very little time doing any kind of shooting for groups. 500-600 yard steel is doable with my 1-6 Razor, so long as it is on the large side. Question mark is I'm not sure how much life I have left on that barrel, it's been 3-gunning for a few years..... I was leaning towards JP for the new barrel but I am also considering Criterion and Larue. I would entertain suggestions for a maker as well as a length, so long as it is a turn-key solution. Additional plus if I can buy a matched barrel and bolt. Cost for a JP is about the upper end of what I am willing to spend.

As always, thanks for the info and the good video format Pat.

Well I just pulled the trigger on a Viper PST Gen2 3-15 MRAD FFP to go on my monolithic upper. I had totally ruled out 6.5 Grendel and 22 Nosler, and was leaning towards a JP barrel in 223, and now the 224 Valkyrie is making waves. If I stick with 223 my expense will be way lower as I have a ton of components and I'm already reloading for it, and it will keep me in the Gas Gun Light Tactical division. But the 224 Valkyrie (or the 22 Grendel or 6mm Grendel, argh, decisions), will give me trajectory that is near-peer with 6.5 Creedmoor out of a small frame gun. For the near term I plan to pull scope/mount from my 3-gun rifle and swap on the PST just to have fun and learn the optic a bit. I need to weigh cost/benefit on quality 223 components vs. 224V components. I do have a bunch of powder that is on the slow side for 223 that may work well for 224V. It was bought for 30-06 and a 200 Swift varmint rifle that just don't see enough range time to come close to using what I have. I am 100% certain that I will get a lot more range time with a 223 Wylde which is probably the prudent direction. As you guys have pointed out, it's the Indian, not the arrow. It's all for fun.