glknineteen

I'm thinking maybe a little loctite got into the head and bonded the broken bit into the hole. I'll try heating it to boil out the locktite.

I bought a 10-8 rear sight that fills in for a bomar on my LB premier II. It's an awesome sight by the way, for anyone who's on the fence or wondering. Anyways, I had the bomar removed, fit the base of the 10-8 sight to the notch, pushed it in, installed the set screws, and screwed down the sight leaf. Beautiful!! Now for my problem... I took the gun out along with an allen key magnatip bit and the screwdriver to zero the sight with my handloads. Then I ran into my first problem. The large screw that holds the sight leaf in is a really shallow flathead, and try as I did to match the bit perfectly and hold it square to the screw, I stripped the little bastard anyways. Oh well, it was still marginally usable, so I moved on. Next, loosen the two set screws and push the base over to zero the gun. As I loosen the first screw, the tip of the bit breaks off, perfectly flush with the top of the base, giving me nothing to grab on to the pull it out. I finally got the base off the slide, but the piece of bit is still stuck in the set screw. I've tried tapping it with a mallet, using a pick to hit the top of the chunk to move it, tried using breakfree to loosen it up, nothing. My next thought is to either heat it up or cool it down in the freezer, hoping this contracts the metal enough to loosen the deathgrip. I've tried rare earth magnets, but its really in there. I'm thinking if freezing and heating fails, I'll have to have someone drill it out, and start over. Any other suggestions?

First off, wow!!! That is a sweet rifle, and killer accuracy. Good job! I have a question, as a relative rifle noob. The paracord tied to the bipod legs: faster leg deployment, or another reason I'm not thinking of?

Here's where I'm coming from though: plenty of people are getting MOA and better accuracy from this rifle, out of the box. Obviously the stock isn't ideal, but it also seems to work well enough. While I'm saving up the money for a B&C, used HS Precision, or something else, I might as well try this on a stock that will probably get thrown away eventually. If my idea works, or has no effect, that's fine, but I obviously don't want to make the accuracy worse that out of the box.

Oh, believe me, I'll get a better stock eventually. I'm asking more theoretically I guess. Would it help? Would there be a reason that I wouldn't want to do this?

So, I'm in the process of getting a 700 SPS Varmint, and the stock is obviously a limitation. Is there any reason I couldn't take some sand paper to the barrel channel to open it up a bit, to keep the barrel from contacting the stock? Obviously a nicer stock replacement is ideal, but in the meantime, would this help at all? Thanks for the wisdom guys.

If it makes you guys feel any better, I paid about 3.60 yesterday, and felt like I was getting a good deal. It's been really expensive around here for way too long.

The defensive shootings where the good guy wins is not about caliber, nearly as much as it is about shot placement and multiple hits in a small timeframe.If you pay attention to any real world operators, whether they be military, police, or otherwise, the winner is the guy who can put the most rounds into the bad guy the fastest. This is how you get the most effective incapacitation. This is why I carry either a 9mm (glock 19 or s&w mp 9c) or a 38sp. revolver. I know I can make good hits, and I can put a lot of rounds into critical mass quickly. They aren't good groups, but I don't miss the a or b zone, and all the hits are in the heart, lungs, kidneys, stomach areas, so I'm fine with that all day long.

Thanks again all...after teardown #2, I think the issue was insufficient tension on the sear from the sear leg. I think I get how this was creating the problem, almost like a "sear bounce" situation. Put more tension on the sear leg, and now I can't make the hammer follow. Problem hopefully solved.

Thanks a ton guys. I'll try that out and report back with what I find. I'm hoping it's that simple!

Ok, so after-maintenance update. I finally got a chance to do a complete tear down. Nothing seems wrong. My hammer hooks are in good shape, the sear and disconnect are like new, and although I put a little extra tension on the sear leg of my spring, the hammer follow persists. n If it helps anyone diagnose this, it's only on relatively aggressive reloads, and the hammer always slips to the halfcock notch. That means that either the sear leg needs more tension, or there's damage that I'm not seeing to the hammer hook or sear, right? Or am I missing something?

What is meant by "unsprung movement"?

It's so that if the hammer gets smashed into by something, ie the ground, it's not going to break the hammer hooks or sear and immediately set off a round...there's something to catch it before then. That's my understanding at least.

So, I'm having occasional hammer follow with my slingshot reloads. It doesn't happen during livefire, and it hasn't happened so far if I put in a mag and drop with the slide release. Like I said, only happens occasionally, but that still means something is wrong, am I right? What parts might be the problem? Am I just going to have to replace the whole fire control group?

Good info everybody, thanks. I liked the point about being a friend to him, that makes a lot if sense. Thanks again, and keep it coming.