RickRak2000

Rick sez... Try putting 125 projectiles in the collator and then adding 100 more each time you add primers. The 25 extra will serve to agitate the pile a bit and keep the output rate up. Use a plastic cup etc, put 100 in the cup and make a reference mark for the next scoop full.

Hi, The prepared case activates the dropper tube. If your powder drop is adjusted for a longer case, a shorter case will obviously receive a shallower depth of expansion and less flare compared to a longer case. Being shorter, it will naturally lift the dropper tube less than a longer case does. If your dropper is adjusted for a longer case, a short case may not even lift the dropper tube high enough to allow the ball bearings to exit the dropper bore - no bullet will drop. I suggest sampling your brass and determining the shortest cases you're likely to use and set the powder drop and bullet dropper to operate with that case length. Longer cases will then be expanded a bit more deeply and perhaps have more flare than needed, but the shorter cases will at least activate the dropper. Then, to correctly set the dropper, unscrew it a few turns upward and position a prepared (short) case under the dropper. Operate the press handle down and leave it there. With the dropper full of bullets, screw it downward. when it contacts the case, the dropper tube will stop moving downward, but the die body will continue threading into the toolhead. Note the point at which you see the column of bullets drop and then screw the die down 1/4 turn or so deeper, to give a little over-travel. That's all you need. Hand tighten the lock nut and you're good to go (not with a wrench or you may crack the relatively thin-walled aluminum die). When the dropper is properly adjusted, once the bullet column has fallen, and the bottom bullet is on the case mouth, screwing the die down farther doesn't do anything. The column has fallen and can't fall any farther. As an analogy, It's like when you squeeze the trigger... once the hammer falls, continuing to squeeze the trigger harder won't do anything. The hammer has already fallen. Rick (a.k.a. Mr.Bulletfeeder)

You might try looking at the dropper bore where it meets the entry cone. If your prepared cases have a really sharp edge on the outside of the case mouth, over time you may notice that the anodized aluminum starts to get scraped towards the bore and a little ring or burr of aluminum will be present. Sometimes the projectiles can hang up there. It's easily removed with an exact knife. Maybe that's the issue you're having. Remember that the output tube spring should be routed so the there is no upward or lateral pressure holding the dropper from freely moving up and down. This is more more noticeable of a 1050 when the toolhead is down. On the 650 it's not as much of an issue. You may also try putting a #84 rubber band around the top of your powder measure and routing the output tube spring under it so as to keep the spring tube relatively aligned with the bore of the dropper and providing a little bit of slack. Rick

get a combo seat-crimp die for the last station.

The true test of durability would be with the sight mounted on the slide itself. Anybody out there have one of these slide-mounted and have it fail?

Uhhh... when it's really quiet, I can hear my brain cells die...

Playing in a band on cruise ships in the Caribbean.

You might try running the collator at a different speed. The particular bullet you are using may be falling into the output tube funnel and hitting at an angle that causes it to bounce in such a way as to fall sideways and get stuck. Since you also load 40 cal, you're probably set up with the large diameter output tube assembly. Most short 9-38's (especially 90-100gr) bullets have this issue more than the longer bullets... but the 9-38's will also pass through the small diameter assembly... and its output tube funnel has a smaller aperture which will most likely eliminate the problem altogether. I've also heard of guys putting a small piece of duct tape (or velcro pile tape) into the large end of the funnel to soften the bounce as the bullet drops into it. If you need the small output tube assy, they can be bought separately. Sometimes, a very minor change in the tilt angle will do the trick. It's easy to simply use a small shim under the front upper hanger puck to tilt the collator up a tiny bit, or under the rear puck to tilt the collator down. If you have a smart phone, there is an App that will make the phone operate as an inclinometer that you can use to measure the pitch angle. I hope this helps.

The MBF unit simply places a projectile onto the case mouth. It has absolutely nothing to do with charging cases with powder. If you (or anyone else for that matter) begins to have a technical or mechanical issue with your MBF unit not operating as designed, please feel free to contact me about it and I'll help resolve the issue if I can. (e-mail is the preferred contact method)

Are the stage diagrams posted anywhere yet?

If you have an upside down bullet every 25 rounds or so, you definitely need to adjust the bullet collator. That should not be happening.

The main issue concerning wax lubed bullets occurs in the collator. Wax on the sides of bullets causes drag which interferes with reliably flipping the bullets. A dusting of powdered mica on the bullets greatly reduces that drag. Occasionally dusting a thin film of mica on the collator plate slot walls is also useful. People usually put their bullets into a coffee can or gallon baggie... add some mica powder and roll the bullets around to be coated. Cast bullets with the new coatings work fine... just like jacketed/plated/moly-coated. Alternatively, I have received reports from users having success spraying original Armor-All on the bullets and letting it dry. It's quite slippery and seems to work OK for many users. Silicone spray has also been used. The important factor is not to use any petroleum based lubricants since they can affect primers and/or powder over time. Also note that if using cast bullets with wax lube, load in a relatively cool environment to keep the wax as hard as possible. If you are casting and lubing your own bullets, try to use the hardest wax available.

As far as the ITAR argument goes... what's the difference between a case feeder and a bullet feeder? Nothing, in my view. They are both simply labor saving devices. One saves you from handling cases piece by piece... the other from handling projectiles piece by piece. Why allow a case feeder and not a bullet feeder? Since case feeders ARE allowed, by that logic Dillon should be able to sell a press with a bullet feeder, but NOT include a case feeder and therefore not be subject to ITAR registration.

If you get the chance, watch Angus Hobdell move through a stage. He used to be involved in Fencing, and some of the footwork techniques used in that sport are also valuable in practical shooting.