Tom S.

Seems like this question gets asked at least once a year by people to lazy err I meant busy to search (sorry OP). Tumbling after loading has no effect on the rounds. As pointed out, hollow points can be a pita. Depending on the size of the opening, you might get by using corn cob media instead of crushed walnut shells, or simply do them by hand using a rag and denatured alcohol.

My guide to the RF-100: Cleanliness is a must. Compressed air and a microfiber cloth are your friends. Even if it looks clean, clean it before each use or after 1k primers, whichever comes first. Level - level - level. It may not have to be perfectly level to work but it must be consistent, so make sure it is level to begin with, and check it periodically. If it is on your reloading bench, vibration from your press(s) can make it move and unless your bench is made of granite, the level could change so check it! Use one brand of primers. Primers vary and if yo switch brands after getting the RF-100 to work with one brand, you are asking for problems. In times of primer scarcity this can be difficult but either consider swapping for your preferred brand or buy 100k of whatever brand you can get and set the RF-100 for those. Just be forewarned, some brands are notorious for causing problems, so avoid them. One size primer only. Switching from large to small or vice-versa is an invitation for problems. If you can't afford to have one RF-100 for each, try to minimize changes by running as many of one size at a session as possible. Avoid using while reloading. Unless your RF-100 is set up on a bench/table separate from your reloader, avoid using it while reloading or at the least, cease reloading operations when using. If possible, buy extra primer tubes and load them all before starting the reloading process. Learn how to adjust. Dillon has excellent instructions and there are several tips and pointers given on this board. Most are not rocket science, just common sense. Only make one change/adjustment at a time. While this sounds like a lot of screwing around, it really isn't if you pay attention to the issue of consistency. Once you eliminate variables like switching brands, about all you need to do once you get it dialed in is periodic cleaning and checking level. Also be aware that not every upside down primer occurs from the RF-100. Careless loading of the priming station (primer tube not seated tightly against the top of the primer magazine) as well as failing to keep the primer mechanism clean and properly functioning can cause them too. The PAL system works good but requires more user interface during use. However, even the PAL unit should be cleaned every 1k or so to prevent problems. The RF-100 allows you to dump in the primers, turn it on and go do something else (like get the next primer tube ready).

Yeah, I'm a little late but.... make sure your scale is calibrated when you start and if you notice drift in the weights as you reload, check the scale. This is especially true if using an electronic scale. They can be affected by fluorescent lights, air currents, etc.

Maybe... but if you try to lube me up, there's gonna be trouble!

My shoulder is north of 73 years old and working fine... Looks like the price has come down however, now $165.

Not a great price but if you need them, they got them: Brownell's Primers

So what happened to Smitty79 - the OP? Did he try to pound it out and it blew up or what????

The person(s) who thought small primer 45 cases were a good idea should be beaten and shot. I either throw the small primer cases out or trade/give them away. Life is too short to deal with that crap.

Don't be vague. Send them a list of the parts you need to replace and pictures if they apply. If a part is worn or defective, they will replace it, but don't expect them to send you a bunch of parts based upon your say so. You may need to send them the parts for verification. BTW I don't know if the no BS warranty applies to second or third owners but it seems to have been Dillon's policy in the past not to distinguish between the two.

Being consistent with your operating method will go along way towards getting consistent powder measurements. Same stroke, same speed, full to the stops up and down. I have used HS6 and while it's not the best metering powder, it should hold the .01 tolerance.

Dillon products come with manuals. Read them - they are your friend!

Interesting, just don't know if it's $190 worth of interesting...

Dillon has hidden a lot of stuff on their website since re-doing it! I even tried searching and came up empty. Nice work!

The Inline Fabrication mounting system is a well thought out, well executed product. I have/use it for multiple items. I have been i contact with them about devising a mount for the Frankfort Arsenal Bullet Puller as I do not have room to mount one to a wall. If others are looking for a similar solution, please let them know!

They are not available to my knowledge. Even if they were, by the time you were done screwing around figuring out what size hole was needed (not to mention the risk of drilling too large and thus scrapping the bar), you would probably be better off buying an extra standard one, setting it for what you want, mark it accordingly and move on. EDIT: Or maybe not! Looking at Dillon's site, it does not look like they sell the bars individually any more.