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About Ronemus

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    Alan Ronemus
  1. Go to I have 2 pairs of his grips and love them. He will customize the fir and you can choose from a huge selection of woods.
  2. +1 for White Oak = John holliger doesn't tolerate inaccuracy.
  3. It's common (but not necessary in my opinion) to use Loctite on the barrel extension; you may need heat to break it loose.
  4. I couldn't find recoil springs strong enough for my 10 mm Witness Hunter, so I had some custom made. They were pricey but practically eliminated the battering that occurred with the factory springs. There are a number of places that will do the work - I easily found a dozen with a Google search. I can't remember with certainty which one I used after 5 years, but I think it was McMaster-Carr ( You'll have to supply the dimensions for the spring. Be aware that ther's a maximum diameter you can use - too big and you won't be able to assemble the pistol.
  5. The CED screens are sensitive to infrared light, not visible; you have to use the right LEDs for a custom setup. I use my CED IR screens outdoors. I just tape cardboard to the top of the IR source to make it completely independent of ambient light. It works very well! I get consistent velocities and no failures to read shots. It's well worth it to get the IR screens.
  6. Use Decot frames; they put the lens slightly away from the face, allowing free ventilation. They're the only glasses I haven't had fog, and I don't need any anti-fog on them. Definitely get the lenses anti-reflection coated; the coating is Teflon, which repels water.
  7. I talked with Sprinco last year, and they don't make their rod system for the Hunter. I had custom 25# springs made (the heaviest that will physically fit), and even they aren't enough with the full-power 200 gr loads I shoot. I ground down the collar on the guide rod to make room for a polymer recoil buffer (Buffer Tech from Brownell's),and that helps a lot. I also ground ~3/8" off the ejector to shorten the distance the brass flies, but it still goes 15-20'.
  8. The chrono sensors have a limited field of view that corresponds to the diffuser. I've taped cardboard to the top of my IR diffusers so I'm completely independent of ambient light, and it works well. A chrono coffin is overkill and inconvenient to transport and set up.
  9. If you're going to reload, just get the 10 mm and load down to .40 levels when you want to. You'll need two recoil springs since full-power 10 mm loads will batter the frame and extractor if you use a .40 spring, and you'll probably have ejection issues using .40 loads with a 10 mm spring.
  10. I had good luck at Gun Source when I bought mine a couple of years ago; they had the best price and it was in stock.
  11. The 40 and 45 do indeed designate caliber; unless one of your guns is a .45 the other extractor is worthless. You might talk to EAA about exchanging/replacing it since they put the wrong part in your gun.
  12. Brownell's sells a shock buffer ( that works well in my Hunter. It fits the frame channel well, but it is rather thick; however, that's easy to adjust with sandpaper. The Hunter uses a different guiderod, and it was necessary to shorten the collar to make room for the buffer. Models that can use the conefit guiderod may be OK as is.
  13. It depends on what caliber and loads you're shooting. With full-power 200gr loads in my 10 mm Hunter, I'm using a 25# recoil spring; I could use a heavier spring, but there isn't clearance for thicker wire.
  14. .40 and 10 mm headspace on the case mouth; you can't use .40 in a 10 mm chamber.
  15. I glued cardboard to the top of the IR screens' diffusers to block ambient light; that way I have constant light all the time. I use them in full daylight with no problems. The only time I've had problems was when the battery gets low. The low-battery indicator is a completely filled battery icon (it doesn't appear at all when the battery is good), which is counter-intuitive. If you have any doubts, replace the battery before doing anything else.