mpom

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About mpom

  • Rank
    Calls Shots

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    VA
  • Interests
    Shooting, sailing
  • Real Name
    Mark Pomeranz
  1. How about contacting Strongside Tactical? Nothing to lose and they might know the answer. Mark
  2. They can be, which is why Kroil, or a similar penetrant, is very helpful. Worked for me multiple times with M&Ps and other firearms. Don't forget, traditionally sights are installed right to left, so should be removed the same way, to the right, from the shooter's perspective. A padded vice is really helpful to hold slide when drifting sights, so all force is directed to sight, also reduces chance of slide flying away while convincing sight to move. Would never use a steel punch as it would deform the sight and likely ding the slide should it slip when hit. Guess if all else fails and I had no use for the old sight, I might, with extreme care not to damage the slide. Sights have to be oversized, as tolerances in dovetails are large, so aftermarket manufacturers make sure they will not get returns because the sights start out loose in some slides. Have had good luck with both metal files and various stones when fitting front and rear sights. Diamond files are faster but not absolutely necessary. Mark
  3. Think of your eye as the rear sight on a shotgun. If you are already high with pellets, then consider lowering the butt stock with shims, as raising your eye via a cheek pad will raise your point of impact. Might also move it to left if you are right handed.
  4. Then your def'n has not experienced a well tuned single stage trigger such as a JP, where there is NO perceptible movement, until the gun goes off. Zero takeup. Same for many bolt action rifle triggers. A good 1911 trigger does have takeup, but clearly not all single action triggers do. Am interested in further feedback on the Trigger Tech trigger, as it sounds like a good 1911 trigger, some light takeup and quick reset. What I do not like on the Geislle triggers is the long reset. Mark
  5. Did you buy the set recently? Have not seen that on the website. Mark
  6. Try placing a pencil in the bore, rubber eraser closest to breech face, point up and dry fire. See how much the pencil is smacked up by the striker. Compare this distance to another M&P if you can find one. Mark
  7. Might be a timing issue; the ramp on the trigger bar may not be raising the striker block (round piston like part) enough at the point when sear releases striker. This leads to peening of the groove in the striker. Examine the striker for any deformation due to interferance with the block. Also, see if by installing the original striker block the problem is resolved. A simple solution is to close the loop at the end of trigger bar just a bit, as that delays sear release and allows trigger bar to raise the block a bit more. Of course, it could be something completely different. Curious as to outcome. Mark
  8. I asked that of Dawson rep a few months ago, he said they are after the boss to do that, as many customers are asking for it, but he has other projects he is working on.
  9. As far as the front Dawson sights, file/stone till you can slide it without force half way on, then use drift punch, either the included aluminum one or a heftier brass punch to set silght in middle of slide dovetail. I ground a flat bottom to my brass punch, so more surface area meets the side of sight. The rear sight is trickier. Fitting is no problem but adjusting is a bit tedious. Easy to move more than is wanted with a hammer and punch. No big deal, as long as you know where you want sight to end up in dovetail. I use a micrometer to measure distance from side of slide to side of sight, in a horizontal plane, using the depth gauge bar sticking out of bottom of micrometer, if all that makes sense. Brownell's has a formula for sight adjustment as I think does Dawson as well. Have a MGW sight pusher made for Glocks, does not work well for M&P in my limited trials. Not really needed for the 2 M&Ps I have replaced sights on. Mark
  10. Have not seen this with mine. Talk to Apex yet? Randy should have an answer, with photos as good as the ones you posted.
  11. Could not find my bag of clips, only the 1 I keep as a spare. Wire diameter is .028" Here is an example http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/item/hitch-pins-clips/small-hitch-pin-clips-zinc/43315-a Hope that helps.
  12. When I lost mine, often called a hitch pin, I bought a bun h from a hardware distributor. Slightly thicker wire, stiffer, so harder to remove. Did need to shorten by about 1/8". Mark
  13. As long as the smith follows Randy's instructions, should be a piece of cake. Mark
  14. Accuracy has to do with repeatable barrel position as well as correct barrel twist rate. Wonder if S&W took a page from Apex and modified external barrel dimensions for better accuracy. Mark
  15. Believe the port size is .068, if that matters.