mpom

Classifieds
  • Content count

    503
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mpom

  • Rank
    Calls Shots

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    VA
  • Interests
    Shooting, sailing
  • Real Name
    Mark Pomeranz
  1. Did you buy the set recently? Have not seen that on the website. Mark
  2. Try placing a pencil in the bore, rubber eraser closest to breech face, point up and dry fire. See how much the pencil is smacked up by the striker. Compare this distance to another M&P if you can find one. Mark
  3. Might be a timing issue; the ramp on the trigger bar may not be raising the striker block (round piston like part) enough at the point when sear releases striker. This leads to peening of the groove in the striker. Examine the striker for any deformation due to interferance with the block. Also, see if by installing the original striker block the problem is resolved. A simple solution is to close the loop at the end of trigger bar just a bit, as that delays sear release and allows trigger bar to raise the block a bit more. Of course, it could be something completely different. Curious as to outcome. Mark
  4. I asked that of Dawson rep a few months ago, he said they are after the boss to do that, as many customers are asking for it, but he has other projects he is working on.
  5. As far as the front Dawson sights, file/stone till you can slide it without force half way on, then use drift punch, either the included aluminum one or a heftier brass punch to set silght in middle of slide dovetail. I ground a flat bottom to my brass punch, so more surface area meets the side of sight. The rear sight is trickier. Fitting is no problem but adjusting is a bit tedious. Easy to move more than is wanted with a hammer and punch. No big deal, as long as you know where you want sight to end up in dovetail. I use a micrometer to measure distance from side of slide to side of sight, in a horizontal plane, using the depth gauge bar sticking out of bottom of micrometer, if all that makes sense. Brownell's has a formula for sight adjustment as I think does Dawson as well. Have a MGW sight pusher made for Glocks, does not work well for M&P in my limited trials. Not really needed for the 2 M&Ps I have replaced sights on. Mark
  6. Have not seen this with mine. Talk to Apex yet? Randy should have an answer, with photos as good as the ones you posted.
  7. Could not find my bag of clips, only the 1 I keep as a spare. Wire diameter is .028" Here is an example http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/item/hitch-pins-clips/small-hitch-pin-clips-zinc/43315-a Hope that helps.
  8. When I lost mine, often called a hitch pin, I bought a bun h from a hardware distributor. Slightly thicker wire, stiffer, so harder to remove. Did need to shorten by about 1/8". Mark
  9. As long as the smith follows Randy's instructions, should be a piece of cake. Mark
  10. Accuracy has to do with repeatable barrel position as well as correct barrel twist rate. Wonder if S&W took a page from Apex and modified external barrel dimensions for better accuracy. Mark
  11. Believe the port size is .068, if that matters.
  12. Prefer Lucky13. They offer a discount as well (NCGO, good for 10% off)
  13. I would remove the fire control group by removing the 2 pins and pulling the trigger guard out. Dry fire the group at least 10 times, which should result in a heavy pull at least once, based on your post. Hopefully you can see what, if anything is causing your problem. Its no big deal to further disassemble the mechanism for cleaning, inspection and lubing. Mark
  14. Sight it in with shot shells and slugs. Older ones such as mine shot very high, corrected with higher front fiber optic triangle.