Shadowrider

Would it be too much to ask for a case of 185gr .45 JHPs? I had to resort to paying beaucoup money for a few Hornady HAPS to tide me over because the stars aligned for me and I found some. I'm thinking nobody is running the lower selling calibers at all. I've been on the notification list at PD for months and nothing. Looking regularly at MG and nothing. It's irritating...

I've found e3 to be very well mannered. Not like Clays at all when pressure starts getting up there. I've loaded into the PF 140s and the chrono numbers were still stable. Very linear. No experience here with SP, but I've loaded WST, Clays and Titegroup and e3 is far more linear than all of them.

I had a guy (and someone who would know) tell me that Federal loads BE86 in most of their factory pistol rounds. It was available for years as a non-canister powder to the OEMs before being offered as a retail canister powder. If I were limited to a single powder for all handgun uses it would be BE86. Thankfully we aren't because it's not the best choice for gaming, but for your purpose it's hard to beat.

Here is my solution. Not a total solution but it sure did help. I still have to lube, but no longer get the impression that my shell plate is going to snap off.

If they kill off the foundational division of the sport, there will be no reason for me to continue to participate in it. After basically neutering revolver there just won't be anything there to hold my interest. Loading 20 rounds in my mags and reloading once somewhere in the stage is just boring. Production doesn't do anything for me either for some reason I can't quite figure out, but it never has piqued my interest.

Running pin tumbled spotlessly clean brass here too. I've finally had it. I'm shocked I haven't broken my press yet. Hornady One shot USED to work just fine. I don't know whether I have a bad batch, they've changed formulas or what. I too use a 13X9 cake pan and stand all cases up in it and also group them in a bunch sides touching. I spray at a 45 degree angle specifically to get lube into the inside of the cases. I spray them. Wait a minute. Turn the pan 180 degrees and spray again. Then 90 degrees and another 180. I can see it running down the inside of the case! They stick like they are epoxied to the funnel and I know there's lube in there. Used to be if you missed 4 cases in 10 it didn't really matter. Now you have to spray and hit every single case and it still doesn't seem to matter they are just gonna stick anyway. My Hornady sizing die is TiN coated and it doesn't care one whit whether there is lube or not but they are easier and smoother with a bit of lube. I just rounded up every powder funnel I have and they are going out for TiN coating tomorrow. I ain't messing with this anymore.

I could be wrong, but I think STI dropped their single stack guns.

The rear on my STI Trojan just did the same thing. I think it to be a LPA but it's marked STI. They are sending me a new screw.

I thought my LNL issue was user error too. My main issue wasn't timing, it was seating primers. Took 3 to 4 back strokes to get them home. I had been fighting it for awhile and thought it was just me so I went ahead and decided to keep it and ordered the case feed for it. Set it up and between there being nothing actually broken on the press and the case feed dropping as much brass on my head as in the feed tube I went over and loaded a few rounds on a friends 650. It took all of 6 rounds to convince me to sell the whole setup and buy a Dillon. Yes there's that much difference.

I had some issues with variance myself tho I didn't get numbers as crazy as you. I did the polish thing, it can't hurt, but in my case I didn't see any improvement. I do run the failsafe rod and it actually helps with this so I was a bit disappointed. Then I strapped an aquarium pump to my measure. Still no dice. What I found was that if your bench moves much at all you are jacking with your powder throws pretty hard. I had always loaded with ball powders which measure like water, they just don't vary in my experience but flake powders sure do. Bolt your bench to the wall if you have to, but make sure your press isn't shaking in it's cycle. How smooth you run it makes all the difference in the world. If you case feeder moves at all, that's your sign. Now I get SDs around 10 or 12 with mixed brass. That works for me as long as the groups are good.

Also run a tuned factory trigger. Around 4.8lbs, (probably better now with some rounds through it) stock was just under 8lbs. Dawson front night sight, blacked out rear sight, and rubber Talon grip. Practice is mandatory but they are good shooting little guns and both of mine has been reliable with every kind of ammo I've stuffed in the mags. I bought my wife one and the trigger in hers doesn't need a thing, it's almost identical to mine straight out of the box, except for reset isn't as short. It's about 3 years newer.

LMAO! That's awesome! Edit: Oh crap, necro post. Ooops...

Tank chemistry variations, temp differences, alloy differences, chemical composition, variance between heat lots, different dyes...... I can't believe they keep colors as consistent as they do, it's pretty remarkable actually.

Welcome... Sight radius is a wonderful thing. G34 wins. Other than that I see no real difference.

There's no real advantage to a 17L or 34 if you are running an optic. With that said the 17L I just picked up has the sweetest trigger I've seen Glock let out the door yet, so that may be an advantage? I'm really liking the minus connector in the 17L over the Ghost Ultimate in my 34 MOS. I'd just grab a Gen4 or Gen5 G17, mill it, bolt on a Leupold DPP and call it a day.

WST will work great with coated lead. I've loaded and shot thousands of plain and coated lead 147TC bullets. 1.110 OAL, 3.5 grains WST gets me 134PF out of a M&P 9Pro. It's so soft it's silly. I'd go with WSF for jacketed.

That was completely impossible to do on my LNL. As a matter of fact with large primers it was basically impossible to seat them deep enough to fire and that's the reason I sold it and bought a 650. I know that's not what you want to hear but on mine it wasn't going to work. Nothing on the press was broken and the seating punch would extend way up into the primer pocket. I tried the penny under the punch and all the tricks. When seating, the press linkage and ram just wouldn't apply the force required to seat a primer properly. The compound links, ram, handle, EVERYTHING would just deflect away from the primer and rotate around the axis of the ram. I figured it was just too big and the handle was too far off center which was the root of the problem. To Hornady's credit they did try to work with me on it, sent new primer punches, springs and parts but they couldn't figure it out. When it became clear that they just didn't know what the problem could be I threw in the towel. I was tired of messing with it and sold it. It only had a few thousand rounds on it, maybe 8k. Small primers would work but it still took several pushes to seat some of them. A friend has one that's old and has no issues with it. Maybe I had a lemon. Try seating them with a hand priming tool and see if you get better results. I'd bet you do. Edit: Mine was an early pre-EZJect model that I converted by installing the updated plate. I know they've improved the case feeder a lot since then so maybe the priming system and machining tolerances have improved too.

The Lyman M die in your first toolhead should fix your problem. I've ran both the M die and the DAA powder funnel which will do the same thing only in station 2. The M die you have to watch because if your powder charge takes up a lot of space (fills the case) it will be crushed be the M die's expander. You can grind it down a fair bit but my 9mm powder is very a flake powder and it just won't work with the M die. I don't run two toolheads so I have to use lube in the case. Hornady One Shot won't foul powder or primers so that's how I solved the 650 sticking issue. You'll really like the M die or DAA powder funnel, they make inserting a bullet really easy and they don't fall or tip. Just back off you Dillon PF on your second tool head so it doesn't add more flare.

Dawson and the Brownells mags which are also based on Metalforms. As a matter of fact they seem identical to Dawson except for the black finish, plastic base instead of metal and the price! I've never had a malfunction with them in my Trojan but the Dawson drop quicker with the increased weight metal base. You can always put the Dawson base on them if you want but that puts the price right with the Dawson.

I used to run 3.6 grains under a hardcast lead 147TC and it put me right at 135PF in my M&P 9 Pro. When working up the load I took it up a bit higher and WST will get "peaky" but it does it at a good bit higher PF than we run. WST is fine for USPSA minor PF loads. Just don't try to duplicate factory +P or +P+ loads with it, I think you will find that you don't like the results. Your data looks fine to me.

I'm no legal expert but if it's welded it's welded. Appearance of being welded doesn't matter. Make it pretty.

That I don't know. This is the only Glock I have among a safe full of M&Ps. It's a G34 MOS I bought for playing around with in GSSF matches and maybe CO occasionally.

It's true. I used the Ghost Ultimate 3.5 connector and their spring kit. Had to use the 6lb striker spring from the kit as the 4lb would reset but not retract the trigger enough to engage the trigger stop safety, I had to manually pull the trigger forward. That's no bueno. All other fire control parts are factory. All is well with that 6lb striker spring. If you want to run a 4lb striker spring, stick with the stock trigger spring.

With cost in mind I'll parrot what others have said. Acme 115 grain coated bullets using the 10% code. I haven't found a cheaper deal and their quality is as good as any and better than some. Plated are a crap shoot accuracy wise, some guns like them others don't. And they are more expensive and finicky to load. I'm another fan of E3. You can use Red Dot data backed off 10%, there's an email floating on the interwebs from Alliant stating this. If you are set on reloading book data use 231 or my second favorite WST. You can find WST data in older manuals if you dig. Just load to make 132 PF and call it a day, don't try to take WST to +P pressures, it really doesn't like that, but with minor PF being under standard 9mm pressure it's perfectly safe. It meters fantastic and is pretty economical. And it smells good too.

Sure glad to see that. Thanks for updating MM.