anm2_man

I do like that Roto Cam. I have always been a believer that a bearing should always be used where to parts have rub against each other !!!

Maybe this picture will help you. I used a Hornady Bullet Feed die and it does increase my loading rate. I added a clip that hold the top part of the tube to the case feeder. It provides more stability. No problem clearing the case feeder..

Wow - Did they inform you of the change ? If not, that would be the last time I would be using their product !!

I have bent mine many times over the last 12 years. I just straighten it out (Flat) and keep on loading. Its actually caused by tightening up the wing nut abit to much.

Yes - I used one for years for .223. Because of the size of the projectile, after awhile your fingers get tired and sometimes you end up pinching your fingers on the way to seat it. I decided to get another one (yes they are not cheap) for my .30cal loading. Here is a video of when I bought one for my .30 cal reloading. https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=DagxYZFNAQE I try to leave them setup for each caliber, but it gets expensive. If you do a large amount of small projectile loading, then I would highly recommend it.

When I set up my 650 to do a run of size, swage, trim, I use a tool steel shell plate. I bought them many years ago off of Ebay and your not going to bend or break these. So I use the swage it swager almost all of the time. But I've noticed that sometimes it just doesn't get the job done. I always use (There is a member here that makes them) pocket gages. They alert me when I need to use my super swage on a piece of brass that didn't get swaged all the way. But sometimes I've had brass that would not pass the pocket gages after the super swage. It then becomes scrap.

I've only had to change mine once and not because it trimmed Many thousands of rounds. For what ever reason, the locking ring loosened up during a run and the carbide hit the bottom of the die (Trimming .223 - It seems that the trimmer needs to be pretty close to the bottom of the trim die to have it cut to the correct Cartridge length). But I believe I've trimmed over 50,000 pieces of brass with the carbide that is in there now.

JMorris - That is unreal. Never knew that and I've had F1 Cronies since 1990. I'll have to give that a try.

From a previous 550 owner (now a 650 owner), unless you are planning on increasing you bottleneck cartridges by 10x, I would not upgrade. The reason I upgraded was 1 new gun. A beltfed MG. That is what broke the 550's back. There was way to much work/time involved in reloading bottleneck cartridges. With the increased volume I could not keep up. I could go everyday to the range and shoot various pistols and would never of needed anything more than the 550.

Most of these primer detonations are due to Forcing the primer. If it feels like it doesn't want to go in there, DON'T DO IT ! I have had my XL650 now for 10 years and a 550b before that for 18yrs and have never had one of those detonations !

To the OP, that broken spring is odd. I have had Dillon equipment since the late 80's and have worn out parts, but never broke a spring like that. The best deal is if you have a spare parts kit, and you use a part from there, re-order that part. If you don't have a spare parts kit, - Buy one !

If you can't look at Instagram here is the link at the DP web site http://dillonprecision.net/remembering-mike-dillon/

Yesterday https://www.instagram.com/p/BMkPegDhaDV/?taken-by=dillonprecision

Just a FYI. If you loaded many K rounds, double check the "Case Feed Arm". If its worn like my old one, you will have feed problems. Dillon replaced the entire assembly and I've been good to go !

I believe the depth without a case is limited to full compression of the primer punch spring.