Les Snyder

Classifieds
  • Content count

    613
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Les Snyder

  • Rank
    Calls Shots
  • Birthday 10/12/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Port Richey, Fla
  • Interests
    IHMSA metallic silhouette 1979-81
    USPSA since 1981..A2363 / L747
    Chevy Sportsman's Team Challenge
    3 gun
  • Real Name
    Les Snyder

Recent Profile Visitors

599 profile views
  1. I think the Wilson bolt has a spring loaded ejector like a 5.56, but not sure if they make one for left hand eject... you might send an e-mail to Rudy at Macon Armory...
  2. ben... I have two 9mm Glock mag lowers... the one on my PCC is from New Frontier Armory and is billet... for grins, I built a 7" 9mm AR "pistol" with a billet lower from Palmetto State Armory which is also made by New Frontier and rebranded ... the PSA model was around $210 complete...you will most likely want a better trigger...I just fooled with the OEM hammer and added a "yellow" JP hammer spring most any machine shop should be able to mill the bolt to Glock magazine feedlip width specs
  3. +1 to 1911luvr comment... if you get a bone stock Glock mag billet lower without any last round bolt hold open nonsense you should be fine...my experience mirrors 1911luvr with the PCC .... limit the bolt travel with a bumper so you can just lock it open to show clear... I perceive comments on other forums are not from USPSA PCC shooters... it is a whole lot easier to do a mag change with a short Glock pistol mag than with a 32 round Colt stick
  4. they can't spell but.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-28-EQ-Muzzle-Brake-STAINLESS-STEAL-/152049567541
  5. Flatland... check out McDonald Precision Components... they have an e-bay store... I use their EQ model (comes in 1/2-28 and 1/2 -36) and runs around $25... it is similar to a Miculek, but the slots are slightly oriented to the top of the brake... be sure to click on 9mm for hole diameter
  6. my choice of 135 grain projectiles is my long standing perception that the longer bearing surface bullets should be more accurate... when I started with the PCC, I shot and loaded what I liked in my pistol...I'm still shooting primers from the Clinton days...
  7. Cy... if you are going to experiment with a bunch of different weight buffers, I found that it was easier to use a rifle buffer tube and rifle buffer ( I use an A1 Viet Nam era stock), and just fill the longer buffer with lead shot, different diameter brass slugs, solid poured lead... and in the end as TRUBL commented, came up with a stock 5.2oz rifle buffer (NFA modular bolt for a total of a little over 22oz) and .223 rifle spring for my 146 power factor loads... I do run a Miculek style comp as I found it helped reduce scope shake... I currently have the Enidine hydraulic in it from my 3 gun rifle for a match or two... good luck... if you need weights of various brass slugs it should be archived under my name
  8. to add to what Eric commented...if you have head space and sufficient leade area that does not slow down the bolt while chambering the cartridge, be on the lookout for the bolt battering the rear of the barrel... the NFA modular bolt should be around 17 1/2 oz... I tried a 9oz buffer and .308 spring with mine, but got serious battering of the rear of the barrel... YMMV
  9. I stand, and have a light attached to the case feed support... I glance at the cases as they enter the shell holder from the case feeder, but occasionally catch a missed piece of stepped brass when I check for powder before setting a bullet...
  10. Eric... IM sent
  11. brass with IMT head stamp is also stepped
  12. try removing it with a 5.56 chamber brush... when I had the "stepped brass" separation, it look very similar
  13. significant reduction in flash with the H322 and 69SMK in the 7" and almost non existent with the 10.5 and a LeVang linear
  14. Cy.... my back up firing pin is a Colt, and it is virtually identical to the NFA stainless firing pin, though I don't know the metallurgy or heat treat... as I 've commented, I think that rounding the rear of the firing pin is a good idea as it allows the hammer to hit the pin more perpendicular to the center bore of the barrel....my replacement stainless NFA pin is working well... regards