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pbairborne

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    Bill Masler

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  1. I've now loaded several thousand Ginex SP in 9mm, all on my 1050. The recommendation to lube the cases did the trick. I've been using Hornady One Shot, putting them in a plastic bag, giving them 1 shot, sealing the bag and shaking. Since doing this, I haven't had a single primer pop in my 1050.
  2. I recently bought some Ginex small pistol primers. I had them shipped to my place in Florida where I load on a 650. These primers are the brass ones. What I found was that they were difficult to seat on the 650, giving a number of high primers. Because of that I brought them back to Ohio where I load on a 1050. I've run about 500 on my 1050 and one went off on me tonight. This was the third Ginex primer that has gone off in my 1050. The problem doesn't seem to be associated with any particular headstamp. I've had the 1050 since 2016 and run many thousands of rounds on it using WSP, Federal, CCI, S&B. Wolf and Tula primers, both SPP and SR and never had one of those go off. On the 1050, I adjusted the seating depth to where the primers were at least level with the base of the case. This adjustment has caused no problems when loading S&B's. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Any suggestions to resolve the issue? Bill
  3. I've had Shay build me 2 (on my frames) and he also built me a 9mm single stack. PM me and I'll let you know my experience.
  4. I've loaded Green Dot for both 9 and 40. Out of my Cheely 6" 40, using 185 gr Precisions. loaded to 1.200, 4.0 gr GD gave me a PF of 164. 4.5 gr gave a PF of 179. Out of my 5" Kimber 9, using Eggleston 147 RN, loaded to 1.125, 2.9 gr GD gave a PF of 131.4 In both cases I was using Tula small pistol primers. Wish I still had some. Green Dot is a large flake powder and may not meter as consistently as powders with smaller particle size. That is a suspicion on my part. I haven't tried to prove it. The OP also asked about recoil and making PF. My experience was that the recoil was not different enough from other fast powders (Solo 1000, Red Dot, Sport Pistol) that I could notice the difference. As far as making PF, GD did so without any serious signs of pressure.
  5. Have they released pictures? When will the FA-10 be available?
  6. Powder has gotten pretty hard to find lately. When I saw that Graf's had Vectan GM-3 at $13.99 for a 1.1 lb container, I had to try it. On searching Enos and elsewhere, I found very little load data on GM-3. Nobel Sport notes that it is a single base powder and it is recommended for shotgun use. Their burn rate chart indicates that the burn rate is similar to W-231, for what that's worth. So a bit of experimentation was in order. I'm shooting a 5 in 9mm Akai Custom 1911, so that what the data was generated on (using a Labradar chrono). All ammo was loaded with range brass to an OAL of 1.140 with a 0.378 crimp and Winchester small pistol primers. The chrono data was done in 10 shot strings and the temp was about 65 degrees. 115 gr Acme coated bullets: 3.8 gr GM-3 gave the following data: Hi V = 1144/ Lo V = 1079/ AV = 1122/ ES = 65/ SD = 24/ PF = 125 4.1 gr GM-3 gave the following data: Hi V = 1171/ Lo V = 1133/ AV = 1149/ ES = 38/ SD = 12/ PF = 132 4.4 gr GM-3 gave the following data: Hi V = 1226/ Lo V = 1183/ AV = 1206/ ES = 43/ SD = 12/ PF = 138 The string with 4.4 gr of GM-3 showed a hint of primer flattening, so I stopped there. 145 gr Bayou coated bullets 2.7 gr GM-3 gave the following data: Hi V = 889/ Lo V = 841/ AV = 864/ ES = 48/ SD = 13/ PF = 125 3.0 gr GM-3 gave the following data: Hi V = 932/ Lo V = 894/ AV = 911/ ES =38/ SD = 13/ PF = 132 3.3 gr GM-3 gave the following data: Hi V = 991/ Lo V = 951/ AV = 964/ ES = 39/ SD = 11/ PF = 139 The string with 3.3 grains of GM-3 also showed a hint of primer flattening, so that was the highest amount of powder I ran with 145 grain bullets. Standard caveats apply. My blaster is probably different than yours. Your results may vary. Start low and use a chrono to work up loads.
  7. I've run W-572 in 9 major, so take this for what it's worth. For me it behaved a lot like Autocomp or CFE Pistol. I'm running a 5 in barrel with no holes. I load to 1.175 in and used Tula SR primers using Montana Gold 121 IFP's. 6.6 gr of 572 gave a PF of 153.9. 6.9 gr gave 161.0. 7.2 gr gave 165 and with 7.2 grains I got a power factor of 168.3. I didn't see signs of pressure. On the other hand, I didn't see an advantage over AC or the HS-6 that I normally use. But given the availability of powder, it may be an alternative if you can't find other powders.
  8. About 4 years ago I tried 572 in my open gun. The gun is an EGW with a Storm Lake barrel and no holes. I'm loading 121 IFP's at 1.175 with a 0.377 crimp and Tula SR primers. 6.0 gr =>141 PF 6.3 gr => 151 PF 6.6 gr => 154 PF 6.9 gr => 161 PF 7.2 gr => 165 PF I ran 7.5 gr, but my chrono only picked up 3 of the 10 shots for some reason. I didn't see significant primer flattening. My conclusion was that it could be used to make major, but didn't see any advantages over the HS-6 that I'm using now, so I didn't do any more testing.
  9. Yesterday I contacted Akai Custom about the problem. Lisette told me that the slide release would have to be recontoured and that they would be glad to do it. Simple job. I could send it, but I think I'll wait until I am in FL this winter and just take it to them directly. Meanwhile, I'll run my Tripp mags when I need to have the gun go to slidelock.
  10. Range report: I went to the range today. I dropped the recoil spring to 8 lb and tested ammo from 115 gr Federal commercial ammo to reloads with PF of 125-140. The results were the same. My Wilson 9 mm ETM mags and the Metalform mags would not give slidelock when the gun went dry. My Tripp 38S mags gave slidelock every time and with all the types of ammo I tried. I also removed the slide and looked at where the follower engages the slide release, comparing my Wilson, Metalform and Tripp mags. I couldn't see any difference, measuring the space left when the follower engages the slide stop. I did this with dial calipers, measuring the space from the mag baseplate to the grip. I understand that this is a crude measurement because the polymer baseplates may not be nearly the same. Still, the differences I say were on the order of 0.01 in. Still scratching my head...
  11. I'm only shooting minor loads in this gun. I'll give a lighter spring a try.
  12. I've done some searching, but haven't seen an answer to my problem. I'm running an Akai Custom 1911 in 9mm. With the mags I have, 25 or so Metalform and Wilson ETM, the gun will not reliably go to slidelock when run dry. Only occasionally does the gun go to slidelock, perhaps 1 out of 10 times. With all these mags, when an empty mag is inserted into the gun and the slide is pulled all the way back and released, it always slidelocks. While I shoot a variety of ammo, most of what I have been shooting lately is 145 Acme coated, loaded to 1.125 in with 2.9 gr Solo 1000 (lot 2384). The power factor I get is 130-131. I'm running a 17 lb mainspring and a 9 lb recoil spring, although I have run a 10 lb recoil spring with the same results. This week I tried out Tripp Cobra mags for 38S. I used 3 of them in a match and all worked perfectly, with no feed issues and always going to slidelock when the gun ran dry. Has anyone had this experience? Any suggestions to resolve my problem? Bill
  13. I bought a used Kimber Stainless Target a couple of years ago. I've used both Metalform and Wilson Combat 10 round mags in it. I've had to put some work into the gun. Had a 2 lb trigger job done and had to have the barrel throated to run reloaded ammo. Both the Metalform and Wilson Combat mags seat just fine and drop free. The problem I have had with it has been ftf's. This happens most often when doing a slide lock reload with a mag that has been pressed to the bottom of a mag pouch. In this case, the top round pivots downward toward the base of the mag just a bit. When the mag is inserted and the slide dropped, I get a nose dive and ftf. My solution was to buy a new SS from Akai Custom. After that all the problems went away. Maybe if I get bored this month, I'll take the Kimber out again and see if I can get it to run. Bill
  14. I use a mixture of about 3/4 by volume 3 mm ceramic balls and 1/4 by volume of 1/8 in oblong 302 SS media. The volume of this mix I use is about the same as 5 lb of SS pins. This is for the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler. The mixture was suggested to me by a fellow shooter who has a lot of experience in metal finishing. I find that a half hour of tumbling is all it takes. I find that the mixture of ceramic balls and 1/8 inch SS media is a lot easier to remove from the cleaned cases than the pins. I simply did a search on the internet for the tumbling media and was able to buy 5 lb quantities of each.
  15. My suggestion would be to use an 8 or 9 lb recoil spring and a full length guide rod. Lots of them out there:https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Guide-Rods-C475.aspx
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