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About Sniperboy

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 01/01/1978

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    SnipeRanch, Oakland, CA
  • Real Name
    Paul Soo

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  1. That seems right. Just changing to a 1 piece sear 'should' not necessitate changing the FPB.
  2. Pull back the hammer to single action then without depressing the trigger try to push the back of the firing pin with a punch. You should not be able to push it in. Then with your thumb on the hammer pull the trigger slowly and try to push the pin down concurrently through its travel, holding the hammer back. It should only release when the trigger is pulled a certain distance.. at least this is how I checked it. If you are bored, prove to yourself that everything is in order by putting all your stock parts back and repeat and compare the results of your exercise.
  3. Gosh darn it.. kind of surprising considering the CZ's popularity. Thanks for the reply all the same : )
  4. Thanks for the recommendations : )
  5. Did Dawson ever have adjustable rear sights for the CZ SP-01? Just got an SP-01 and sad that DP does not make an Adj. rear for it, since the Adj. rears are standard equipment for me - yep even on a Glock 26 that is pretty ludicrous and a great icebreaker at ranges. Did this beast once roam the Earth and get discontinued or did it never exist?
  6. I would add that for my instance I did not need an extended firing pin block (FPB) when I had the 1-pc sear, stock hammer and stock firing pin in the pistol. When I installed my PDO firing pin, my FPB no longer worked and I now need an extended one.
  7. Only speaking from my experience... you can install the 1-pc sear now without needing to fit the safety. Once you drop in the Titan you will need to fit your safety. I would install the Bolo concurrent with the Titan.
  8. My condolences. If I were in your shoes I would be in a corner crying by now. ..after I threw the pistol (unloaded) against the wall. Admittedly I have wanted to do that on more than one occasion. Have you considered drilling a new hole/divot? At least for the new set screw to lock into. Might salvage what last bit of dignity you have after all the pain and effort you went through. : O
  9. Been there. Use a butane torch and directly heat the set screw. Don't force anything because once you strip the screw head then you will have no choice but to take a drill to hog it out carefully.
  10. Not sure if you are in the USA or not (since you mention IPSC) but you may want to call Henning. I have emailed them many times but have never got a response, however, they are always very nice on the phone and return calls. Don't want that frustration to stew in your mind any more than it needs to : )
  11. Any sight will work to be honest. Its like asking what shoes do I need to win a ball game I compete with my Glock 26 and use the Dawson adjustables plain black rear and front. It looks weird but they've performed really well. My full size Glocks use The same. The only thing I advise is that since the sight radius is shorter you may want to choose a front sight a bit thinner than what you are used to in your full size pistol.
  12. Mine looks like your revision A at this time. : ) but since you were going to do it with sheet metal I simply suggested you put it in the inside. Basically take your revision A picture, elongate it then put it inside your cup. No need to tape it to the outside. Think of it like an insert. I have since moved on from that project as I think I am realizing that my problem (and I suspect a lot of other people's problem) is that my decapper pin is decapping brass with such force it either misses the clamshell bucket or bounces out of it (not an issue of the clamshell staying locked open - if only I can get a dollar for every time I read "change the pivot pin" ). I either have to fabricate a new clamshell bucket or tape "wings on it" to extend as I have done now. I have my decapping pin seated very low, since the last few years I have been picking up brass that is hard to decap for some reason. Adjusting the decapper upwards to relieve pressure does not work since it will sometimes not deprime used brass. Talking to myself about this just now, I am wondering if I need to try a new decapping pin or perhaps it has something to do with my 550 Case feeder setup which is when this mess started to begin with I think...
  13. Sorry for gravedigging, but a suggestion for you - if you make it out of sheet metal, just design in to be placed inside the cup. You make it long enough it should be a friction fit and you won't have to worry about taping it to the outside. Done something similar to my own 550.
  14. I am in the same boat as you right about now, I would recommend a 1 piece sear also. It not only lightens the pull significantly due to eliminating an extra spring, I found that it makes your SA trigger pull crisper too. The 2 piece sear gave me a bit of creep in SA with the stock hammer. The 1 piece sear compared to the two piece sear using the same PDO sear spring reduced the DA by almost a pound. There seems to be conflicting anecdotes but for my Stock 2 the xtreme 1 piece sear did not facilitate a need to refit the safety using the stock hammer. If I recall correctly my stock firing pin block also remained functional.
  15. Mine does not do it either. I actually tried pulling up on the rear of the slide by hand and it would not budge. I could not even induce it even if I purposely tried. FYI I have a 2014 dated Stock 2.