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Sorry, I just saw this thread. I don't know why you can't send me a PM - I cleared out my inbox, so feel free to try again. I have updated Matt's earlier thread to restore the photos of the action bar modification. However, before you send the gun to a gunsmith, I would suggest you replace the magazine spring with a brand new extra power spring - if the gun has run for many years without a problem, and is doing the same thing for multiple shooters, then a worn out mag spring is more likely. The factory spring is borderline anyway; I suggest you order a Wolff or Nordic spring and stuff it UNCUT into your gun (it will be a battle). If the problem goes away, you'll know that is the fix and you can start shortening the spring until you find the functional threshold. When you order the spring, order several so you can cut them to the optimal length and have spares on standby. If the mag spring does not solve the issue, you should investigate the interaction between the action bar cam surfaces and the shell latches - if these parts show wear, replacing them may also help. Bearing in mind the age of this gun, wear in this area is not unexpected. Only after checking that everything is functioning as designed should you look at more drastic modification as described in Matt's thread.
I am not saying that this is the problem, but I often see people very gently push the magazine into their pistols or rifles. Too often that is followed by a dropped magazine the second they fire the next shot. These things are not terribly fragile and a good tap on the bottom insures that the magazine is seated properly and will stay there until you release it.
Thanks, will ask .The issue i had with the plastic body was the windage lock screw would shoot loose and after blowing a match on long range steel due to that, i cranked it tight and cracked the body. Before i switched to the Delta point, i had it glued in place after the crack kept getting worse . I fought it through a few matches and really dont care to go through that again. Unsure what its worth on the used market with it repaired as i wont be going back to it so would prolly only have it repaired to sell it .
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The USPSA website has the schedule. Looks like it’s a back-to-back-back match with the like divisions grouped. Looks like for me this will be the third one in a row that I will miss due to me not wanting to fly halfway around the world 😆 for a match. Unless I get sponsored....lol 2018 USPSA Nine Days of Nationals The United States Practical Shooting Association and the Universal Shooting Academy are pleased to announce the 2018 USPSA Nine Days of Nationals presented by Federal PremiumAmmunition. The match will feature three independent National Championships, October 20-28, 2018 in Polk County, the heart of Florida. Open, Pistol Caliber Carbine, and Carry Optics Divisions October 20-22 Production and Single Stack Divisions October 23-25 Limited, Limited 10, and Revolver Divisions October 26-28 Each match will offer a unique mix of stages. A special aggregate award will be offered for those who compete in all three events.
Yes, checked that. I actually moved the ejector closer to the bolt because I was having brass not ejecting every third round or so. Haven't tested if that solved the ejecting problem, but I made sure that the ejector is not rubbing. So many things that can go wrong. In building other PCCs I had to resolve other issues. And it is not necessarily just from building one yourself using different parts from different manufacturers. One of my friends just had to send back his factory PCC from a well known and respected manufacturer. I'm sure they have seen everything and will "adjust" something to make it right, but goes to show you that tuning may be necessary, no matter what the source. It is nice to have a source such as this forum to help trouble shoot and modify PCCs for those of us that do it ourselves. Thanks again to forum members for the help.
Hi John, I was using Memphis mechanic description as in 'barely falling', or in other words, no, the trigger was not being pulled fully, just enough to barely clear the hammer hooks because that was my interpretation of 'hammer barely falling' as described above. I did contact Memphis for help - Lol - and he said that his description is not accurate, so I am not going to hold him to it, he probably wrote that as he was learning the mechanics of the guns, the same I am doing it now. By the writing above, I thought that the hammer would be quicker than my finger depressing the trigger fully and once the hammer is released the firing pin would impact the safety if the block was not fit to clear when the sear barely clears the hammer hooks (WHAT A MOUTHFUL THAT IS ) , which is why I was setting the safety to clear on that point, on the 'barely falling point'. In my mind I was battling with the question: what is the point of the safety if it clears completely once its barely disengages the hammer hooks? I could not understand how that would help anything, and it seemed a very silly useless safety if that was how it worked. So I experimented with this using the guidelines posted. Again, no hard feelings. It was probably a combination of things and I do not blame Memphis, he writings, not only on this matter but also on other tanfoglio things, is what brought me to this forum and I appreciate his help very much. Thank you. So, in regards to the over travel screw, I did notice the over travel screw and how that would affect the sear 'dis-engagement', this is something I learned with the Shadow 2 as you can tune this gun to release the sear 'just barely' to clear the hammer hook, as this gun has no firing pin safety. So yes I was aware of it and made sure it had enough space. However, I have not modified the screw position (left it as it came from the factory) as in my opinion is has enough clearance (there is a visible gap of maybe 1.5 mm when the trigger is fully depressed). Perhaps you could give me an idea of how much clearance should I allow? Maybe I am exceeding it and I should tune for 1/4 less than what I have now. Just to improve trigger feel. I did try pulling the trigger fully, and, during this test, all my safeties where clearing without touching the firing pin when the hammer is depressed fully so that is reassuring, but perhaps a minimum adjustment would be required just to maximize reliability. I guess that the best way to test this would be by dry firing and see if there are marks on the pin or safety. That would certainly make it easy. To recap: Based on your comment above, I can assume that the firing pin should pass the punch test while the trigger is pressed fully (which I was not doing). That makes more sense, as it will catch the firing pin in the event the hammer inadvertently falling.
^^^^^^^^^ See above. Classifiers are just another stage. Don't give them any more or less respect than you give the other stages. Also don't worry about what the other guys do, just play your game and do the best you can. Job #1 - be safe. IMO the classification system does a pretty good job of unmasking skill level. Some stages are skewed a bit one way or the other but they balance out. As your skill set improves your future classifiers will reflect
I have a CMMG Mk 9 (stock less furniture) that I experience issues with when trying to load a magazine when the bolt is forward. I'm using ASC mags and do not load to full capacity. The mag will simply not seat and lock in fully. It doesn't happen every time, but frequent enough for me to have learned to clear the round in the chamber and lock back the bolt before inserting the mag. Needless to say, this has bit me numerous times in a match so I'm looking for some assistance please and thanks!
Had anyone had trouble with their sizing? I ordered some 1mm .039 in rod and its variable to over .043 in and won't fit my Dawson sights. They did order a smaller size of there's a problem but I would think 1mm should fit. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
So, as is expected, as the quantity of users grows, the number of horror stories increases. It was only a matter of time and no dot is perfect yet. There will be no consensus and people have had failures with both and perfection with both. My best advice is choose one, beat on it, and when you have a particular good one that doesn't break, hang on to it!
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I asked C-MORE if i could buy a aluminium body and try the replacement myself. They said i can send it in and quoted me $129 for the replacement + return shipping. I'll prolly throw it in the trash , don't seem worth it .
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