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I tried that sarge still has that little kick in it and moves case out a little. It helped but still does it. More info. When I push to prime the shell plate is centered with the primer punch. But when I go to raise the ram you can see the shell plate move backward a little and the shell plate is not centered anymore it’s more towards the sizer die more. If I could upload a pic I would but think if the horse shoe shape of plate around primer punch when it starts going up it moves backwards a little and the horse shoe is more to the rear and the side facing the powder die way is flush with the side of the primer punch. It’s no ring back that little bit when I start raising ram.
Northern California?? Stop, you're killing me!! I live 6 hours NORTH of you and I'm still 90 minutes from the Oregon border!! But I digress. You're right, SS is pretty rare at most matches I attend not only up here, but down south as well.But like I said, at the matches I do go to and shoot SS I do not recall seeing any .40, mostly .45 and 9mm. YMMV.
The Taran Tactical's are easier to clean. (important feature if you have to drop your mags in the sand, mud, or dirt). The Taylor Freelance and the Springer's require a tool (screwdriver or hex key) to remove the base. The TT just has a pin that you can push one way and remove the baseplate. No tools to carry with (or lose). I have used all 3 when I was shooting a M&P, I've since changed platforms and use MBX's in my 2011.
Nighttrain, people use 165gr bullets for 9mm minor for a recoil advantage. It sort of defeats the purpose if you use a slow burning powder with it. Slower powders require more powder to reach the same velocity, and more powder for the same velocity equals greater recoil. Power Pistol is not a common powder for 9mm minor for the exact reason. It burns too slow to be a good choice for 9mm minor. Power pistol is also one of those powders that works best near or at max loads, which you won't be at. And it's excessively noisy and flashy. It's just not a powder well-suited to 9mm minor. You can DO it, of course. I just can't imagine why anyone would want to.
All right... OAL There are a variety of methods that can be used to approximate max OAL. Use one. Then load a dummy and make sure it plunks and spins freely. Personally, I load a dummy too long -- size, bell, seat, crimp to .379 -- and make sure it's too long, then I seat it deeper and deeper and deeper, a couple thousandths deeper each time. Eventually it will start to spin, but I can feel it dragging on the rifling lands, then eventually it will spin with no drag. That first OAL at which it spins with no drag, I record as the max, and it's within two or three thousandths of the maximum OAL without rifling engagement. It's foolproof. It takes a little longer, and it's tedious, but it doesn't fail to produce to a precise and accurate max OAL. But, really, any method will work so long as you load a dummy at the end and make sure it spins freely. How much should you reduce from your Max OAL to create a "working" OAL? That's largely up to you. There is some natural variation in OAL. Bullets vary. Cases vary. Cases come with walls of different thicknesses and alloys that compress and "spring back" differently. The metals of your press flex. The tabletop your press is mounted to flexes and shifts. AND your arm moves a little differently each time. There are all sorts of things that can contribute to OAL variation. YOU want a working OAL that's short enough that natural variation isn't going to seat a bullet long enough to engage the rifling lands. It's common to recommend people reduce .015 from max. I usually recommend .010. And a couple of people here have said .005. I do .005 regularly myself. BUT I know my gear and my arm, and I know how tight my OAL variation is. If you're confident in yours, and you want to do .005, knock yourself out. But something else there -- with long range rifle, the closer you load the bullet to the rifling, the more accurate the round is... at 600 yards. At 25 yards with pistol, it's not as reliable a truth. At 25 yards, you might find that .020 or .040 out of the rifling provides the most accurate load. Or not. So closer is not necessarily better. You can tune OAL on your own and experiment. POWDER CHARGE Published load data will give you a window from starting load to max load. They may give you the bottom and top of the window. Or they may just give you the top. If the top is all they give you, the starting load is 10% less. They also give you an OAL. You do not have to use this OAL. What they've given you is a field report. It's what THEY did. You must determine your max OAL on your own, then a working OAL. If your working OAL is the same as their reported OAL, you'll likely have similar results. If you use a longer OAL, you will most likely get lower peak pressure, lower average pressure, and lower average rate of acceleration, and lower velocity. If you use a shorter OAL, you can expect the opposite -- higher velocities and at higher pressures. How much to worry about that is questionable. Some people, if their OAL is far enough away from the published OAL, will bump up or reduce their starting and max loads to reflex the expected change in pressure. Others will still use starting load, but use a chrono and monitor max velocity as the limiting factor. Personally, I would have to have a dramatic difference in OAL before I decided to reduce starting load. But I will pay attention to velocity and come down on max load if I'm getting more velocity than the data indicates I should get for the powder charges I'm using. For your three bullets -- Bayou 124gr TCG -- 3.5 to 3.9 should be fine. Precision Delta 124gr RN -- I'd go 3.9 to 4.3gr Zero 124/125gr -- 3.7 to 4.1gr 3.4gr to 3.8gr is going to be too light for those jacketed bullets, especially that RN.
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Don’t know if this was posted looked but I can’t find anything. Issue is on my 650. My shell plate is moving backwards when it hits that halfway point going up and the index ball grabs plate to turn. When you here it snap when handle is half way down the shell plate moves backward a little bit and makes my case move out a little and when the shell plate reaches tool head the case hits the sizer die and jams cause that little pop halfway up moves it back very little. Any ideas. Would that alignment tool Dillon has fix this. Gonna call Dillon Monday but it really sucks cause every other round hits the sizer die and I have to push it in s little to go in.
The slots each region gets is all there are. The regions can request additional slots from those returned by other regions that won't use them in the 'second round', but IIRC the policy is any additional slots USPSA gets are distributed the same as the other USPSA slots. There's also some slots into the pre-match, but those are mostly for officials and sponsors and the like, plus the USPSA President gets a few to give to whoever they want. FWIW, most of the 'individual' USPSA slots have gone to non-pro shooters in previous years.
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